Many thanks to Jonathan (KM4CFT) who shares the following note:
We are pleased to announce the release of some new products: a 100 watt version of the popular KM4CFT End Fed Kit as well as a Leg Strap, which is perfect for those who have the KM4CFT paddles, Bamakey TP-III or ModernMorse Paddles (or any small magnetic paddle).
Recently, @JasonMartinRF left a comment on my YouTube channel mentioning his excitement about getting on the air with CW but also his concern about the high cost of antennas—especially self-supporting options that don’t require trees. His comment resonated with me because many operators face the same challenge when setting up a portable station, particularly for POTA or other field operations.
I immediately thought of my friend Eric McFadden (WD8RIF), who has extensive experience with lightweight, affordable wire antennas that don’t rely on trees for support. Eric has long used a homemade end-fed random wire (EFRW) antenna paired with cost-effective mast solutions, making it a great choice for portable activations. I asked him if he’d be willing to share the details of his setup, and he generously wrote up the following guide.
by Eric (WD8RIF)
Because I’ve long used low-cost homemade wire antennas for POTA, and since I usually don’t rely on trees to support these antennas, Thomas asked me to describe an antenna and support systems I often use for my POTA activations.
My “Go-To” antenna for POTA is a 28½’ end-fed random wire (EFRW) antenna with three 17’ counterpoise wires. This antenna covers 40m through 6m (and sometimes 80m) and is constructed from inexpensive speaker wire which can be purchased at big box stores in 50’ and 100’ spools. This two-conductor cable can easily be split into two conductors and the thick insulation helps prevent the finished antenna from tangling.
The idea behind the EFRW antenna is that the length of the antenna is not close to a ½-wavelength on any frequency for which it will be used. The EFRW is not resonant on any band of interest and, thus, it requires the use of an antenna tuner (ATU).
The benefit of the EFRW is that it can be stealthy and lightweight, it can be relatively short when compared to simple resonant antennas, and it can support operation on multiple bands. It is true that this antenna requires the use of an ATU, but even an inexpensive manual tuner can be used for this purpose.
To construct my version of the EFRW, split the speaker wire into two separate conductors. Cut one conductor to a length between 28½’ and 29’ to create the radiator. Cut three more conductors approximately 17’ long. Strip a ½” or so of insulation off of one end of each of the four wires. If you wish, install banana-plugs on the stripped end; I put a green, red, or orange banana plug on the radiator and “stackable” black banana plugs on the three 17’ counterpoise wires so I can easily attach all three of them to a single “ground” post. Install an insulator of some sort on the far end of the radiator wire, or create a small loop on the far end of the wire using a knot or a nylon wire-tie for hanging the antenna. (I use military buttons as insulators on my field antennas, and I often use large paper clips to hang the wire to the top of my mast.)
You can connect the radiator and counterpoise wires directly to your ATU-equipped transceiver or external ATU using a simple binding-post adapter or, preferably, a 4:1 unun. No coaxial feedline is needed or, in fact, recommended.
I regularly use a simple binding-post adapter when I’m in the field with my Elecraft KH1 or KX2 field kits. I use a homebrew 4:1 unun when I’m in the field with with my Elecraft KX3 field kit. I use a commercial LDG 4:1 unun (link) when I’m in the field with my Yaesu FT-817ND field kit. (I should note that my KH1, KX2, and KX3 are each equipped with internal ATUs. The FT-817ND doesn’t have an internal ATU but I use a no-longer-available LDG Z-11 ATU with it when I deploy a non-resonant antenna.)
In the field, I suspend the 28½’ radiator as a vertical, as a sloper, or as an inverted-vee, and I lay the three 17’ counterpoise wires directly on the ground, arranged as symmetrically as possible while trying to avoid trip-hazards. (If space is limited, I might lay down only two counterpoise wires or, maybe, even just a single counterpoise wire.)
I usually support the EFRW with a 31’ Jackite telescoping fiberglass mast (affiliate link) or an inexpensive Goture Red Fox Super Hard 720 carbon-fiber fishing pole (available from multiple sellers on Amazon) from which I’ve removed the top three sections to create a sturdy 18’ pole that collapses to less that 30″. (If you order a Goture 720, be sure to order the “7.2m” version because the top three sections are far too whippy to support a wire.)
I’ve supported the 31’ Jackite mast using a drive-on base (more on this below), bungied to a fence-post or sign-post found on-site, and bungied to my folding camp-chair.
I’ve supported the Goture Red Fox 720 on a custom stake (more on this below) and bungied to my bicycle.
I often support my 31’ Jackite mast using a homemade drive-on base. This base is constructed from a scrap of 2”x10” pine about 23” long, a 4″ black plastic toilet flange, a 2’ length of white PVC chosen to provide a friction-fit in the toilet flange, and a PVC reducer at the top. The photos below should provide enough information for you to build your own. I don’t glue any of the plastic items together; I rely on friction to hold the pieces together and I slip the 2’ pipe out of the toilet flange for easier transport in my car. (Disclaimer: I drive a small Honda Fit; I don’t know how well a 2”x10” pine board would survive repeated abuse by a large SUV or pick-up truck.)
The spike for the Goture Red Fox 720 is simply a 7” length of white PCV just big enough to slip the large end of the mast into, with a matching PVC cap on one end drilled to accept a 3/8” diameter, 8” long spike. Originally, I tried using epoxy to secure the spike in the cap, but this failed, and now I’m using an appropriately-sized push-nut to hold the spike in place. (The PVC and the 8” spike were found at the local big-box store; the push-nut was found at a local well-equipped hardware store.)
I hope this article gives you some ideas for your own field operations!
73,
Eric McFadden, WD8RIF
https://wd8rif.com/radio.htm
A huge thanks to Eric (WD8RIF) for taking the time to document his antenna setup in such detail! His approach demonstrates that you don’t have to spend a fortune to get on the air with an effective self-supporting antenna system.
Personally, I believe that using an arborist throw line, a tree, and a simple wire antenna is often the most affordable and effective way to get on the air. However, depending on where you live or where you activate, trees may not always be an option. That’s why having a self-supporting antenna system in your toolkit is always a good idea—it gives you the flexibility to operate anywhere.
If you’ve built an affordable self-supporting antenna system that works well for your field operations, I’d love to hear about it! Feel free to share your experiences, designs, or recommendations in the comments or in a guest post. The more we exchange ideas, the more we can help fellow operators—especially those just getting started—find practical, budget-friendly solutions for getting on the air.
Wednesday, January 29, 2025, was a busy day, but that morning, I was yearning for a little POTA time. I carved out an hour in the late afternoon to play radio—just enough time for a quick activation on the Blue Ridge Parkway (US-3378).
I had two new pieces of gear I was eager to test:
Mike designed this clamp to be lightweight, durable, and versatile—it can attach to more than just a tabletop. He’s even clamped his AX1 to tree branches! As with all of Mike’s creations, it’s purpose-built for field operators like himself.
If you have a 3D printer, you can print your own, or you can buy a professionally printed version from Joshua (N5FY) at Tufteln (links below).
This Christmas, I received a surprise parcel. When I opened it, I couldn’t believe my eyes—a vintage Swiss Army rucksack in pristine condition!
Many of you know I have a soft spot for vintage military packs, and this one is truly special. Jack Carter, who restores these packs, wasn’t sure of its exact age but estimated it to be from the late 1950s or early 60s.
Specs:
Jack meticulously documented the restoration process, including deep cleaning, six rounds of leather cleaning, twelve coats of leather conditioner, and two cans of Filson Oil Wax applied with a heat gun to protect the canvas.
The result? A cavernous, beautifully restored rucksack that will accompany me on many POTA and SOTA excursions. At six pounds, it’s a bit heavy for longer hikes, but for moderate treks, it’s perfect.
I chose the TR-45L for its first POTA activation because I’ve always felt the TR-45L has a nice vintage/nostalgic look to it. It and the pack pair nicely!
Setting up the BNC clamp mount was a breeze. Mike designed it with a dedicated attachment point for the Elecraft AX2’s 13’ counterpoise.
After securing the antenna, I used the TR-45L’s built-in Z-Match ATU to achieve a near-perfect SWR.
Note: Unlike the AX1, the AX2 is a monoband antenna. Mine is set up for 20 meters, though the coil can be modified for other bands above 20 meters.
With everything in place, it was time to hit the air!
Note: All Amazon, CW Morse, ABR, Chelegance, eBay, and Radioddity links are affiliate links that support QRPer.com at no cost to you.
To make the activation more fun, I lowered the output power to two watts. Earlier in the day, 20 meters had seemed lifeless, so I expected a casual activation with space between contacts.
I was wrong. Continue reading Pure POTA Fun: A Quick Two-Watt Activation with New Gear and a Vintage Pack
This past week, I’ve been revisiting my shack, paring down, and reorganizing. By that, I mean separating the wheat from the chaff and reevaluating my grab-and-go radios and accessories.
Before Hurricane Helene (a moment in time I seem to use to benchmark events now), I picked up a few IKEA shelf organizers and was quite pleased with how neatly they displayed my gear. Over time, though, the shelves became a bit cluttered, so it was time to give them some care and attention.
While sorting through gear, I stumbled upon a small ditty bag holding my trusty portable ATU: the Elecraft T1.
I held it in my hand and tried to recall the last time I’d actually used it in the field. Maybe during this activation in July 2023? If I’ve used it since then, I can’t remember when.
That moment made me realize I’d gradually changed how I pack for field outings without even noticing.
In my early days of POTA—2019 and 2020—I relied heavily on the Elecraft T1 and antenna tuners in general. I loved the flexibility they provided when paired with a random wire antenna.
Even now, I often carry an ATU as a form of first aid for antenna malfunctions. While rare, these issues do happen. In the past five years, an ATU has saved me twice—once with a broken Trail-Friendly EFT antenna and once with a Tactical Delta Loop mishap.
For mission-critical activations, such as remote or rare POTA sites, or during multi-week family road trips, I always pack an ATU. It’s a safety net.
With countless activations under my belt, I’ve learned a few things about myself and my gear:
I’ve become more skilled at setting up antennas. I now avoid snag-prone trees and branches and have additional supports when nature doesn’t cooperate.
The POTA hunter community has grown exponentially since the early days. Back then, frequency agility was critical because working the same hunter across multiple bands was sometimes the only way to log ten contacts. It wasn’t unusual for hunters and activators to coordinate activation times and frequencies in advance to increase the chances of logging each other. Continue reading A Subtle Shift in My Field Gear: Rethinking the external ATU
Many thanks to Conrad (N2YCH), who shares the following field report:
by Conrad (N2YCH)
Silver Sands State Park in Connecticut borders the Northern shoreline of Long Island Sound and is located in Milford, a town on the Western side of New Haven County. There is a field between the parking lot and the sound that is a perfect “parks on the air” activation location. There are no power lines nearby. It’s very flat with no trees, so there is nothing to block the signal. It’s very easy to access and has a spectacular view.
Local hams visit to do POTA frequently, and we often run into each other there. One of those hams likes to build and test antennas and dubbed the park the unofficial “antenna testing grounds.” I’ve also used the park to test a number of different antennas myself, and today’s post details the maiden voyage of a brand new Buddipole Buddistick Pro antenna that I received as a holiday gift.
After using a Buddipole vertical as my primary antenna for years for POTA activations, I was interested to see if the Buddistick Pro measured up. What makes the Buddistick desirable is how compact it is. It breaks down and fits into the zippered case it comes with, but when put together, stands tall.
There are many videos and reviews of this antenna online, so I don’t want to re-hash what’s already been reviewed many times before. However, I did want to share how this worked for me.
Setting this up was a breeze; it took just a few minutes. I did bring along my RigExpert antenna analyzer to adjust it for resonance. I followed the instructions on where to tap the coil and how much counterpoise to let out. Everything is clearly marked, and the instructions tell you where to begin. However, the instructions are just the starting point. I had to move the coil tap a few turns to get the reading where I wanted it. Using the coil does narrow up the bandwidth somewhat, so it’s important to test it to see if you have it tuned for minimum reflected at the frequency you want to operate at. Once you have it tuned, you can leave the taps in place so you don’t have to do this each time.
One thing I wasn’t prepared for was frozen ground at the park. The temperature here in Connecticut has been below freezing for a few weeks, and the ground at the park was frozen solid, preventing me from using my electric fencepost to support the counterpoise. I improvised and used my Jeep bumper to hold it up.
Once I was all set up, I connected the RF cable to my Elecraft KX2 to operate QRP using FT8 on 20 meters. I hit the ATU button on the KX-2, and it quickly found a 1.0:1 match.
Next, I connected the computer, synched the clock, and called CQ. I had a pile-up right away.
I use the pskreporter.info map to get an idea of how well my antenna is performing. Considering that I was running QRP, I was happy to see I was reaching the West Coast.
So, how did I do? In one hour, I completed 32 QSO’s with three of those being park to park contacts. I maintained a steady stream of callers throughout the activation. The coverage exceeded my expectations.
Equipment List
The Buddistick Pro, when packed neatly in its case, slides right into a normal-sized backpack with ease, along with the radio, computer, and a spare battery. For me, it will be a good, light companion antenna for the KX2 while doing POTA or SOTA.
I finally got to try something I’ve always dreamed of: proper QRP saltwater ground-planing!
This week, we’ve been in Beaufort, North Carolina—a charming coastal town that I can’t recommend enough. As I mentioned in a post last week, I brought along my Elecraft KX2 and KH1 for the trip.
On Tuesday, we hopped on a small boat/ferry to Cape Lookout National Seashore (US-0683). Since it’s off-season, the island was nearly empty—there were maybe a dozen other visitors there. The weather? Absolutely perfect. It felt like pure bliss.
Naturally, I couldn’t resist scheduling a POTA activation. I packed the KH1 in my backpack and set off to explore.
For the activation, I went pedestrian mobile, standing right at the edge of the saltwater at Lookout Bight. Holding the KH1, I let the counterpoise wire dangle directly into the calm Atlantic waters.
Does submerging a counterpoise in saltwater make a dramatic difference in signal propagation? Honestly, I can’t say for sure—but I can confirm this: it works. The experience was incredible, and the activation felt like a huge success.
I’ll be posting the activation video in the next few days, so stay tuned!
In the meantime, I’d love to hear from you: has anyone else experimented with putting a counterpoise wire directly into saltwater? If so, I’d love to hear your thoughts—please share in the comments!
by Brian (K3ES)
As I prepared my radio gear to do Parks on the Air (POTA) activations across the states of the American West (Six Weeks and 7300 Miles: Activating on the Road), I knew that I would need to operate in a wide variety of different park environments. This need was primarily connected with differences in topography, vegetation, population, and regulatory environments.
A selection of wire antennas, a throw line kit, and some collapsible mast options would serve many of my needs well. However, I also expected that our travel schedule might require me to activate quickly or unobtrusively, from less-optimal locations. Since I do not have an HF rig or antenna system installed in my truck, any vehicle-based operations would need to use equipment from my portable POTA kit.
For these occasions, I intended to use either a wire antenna supported by a telescoping mast attached to back of the truck, or my diminutive Elecraft AX1 base-loaded vertical antenna system. During the trip, I found that I could use the AX1 to complete rapid, and extremely stealthy, activations.
I had ordered the AX1 antenna system from Elecraft early in 2024, and took delivery in March. I used it in a variety of configurations, gaining experience and confidence in its ability to make contacts (K3ES Travels: Ten Days of QRP with Compromised Antennas).
In early May, I also ordered an AM1-2 clamp-on antenna mount from ProAudio Engineering, and it had proved its versatility in deploying the AX1. All of this equipment and more found its way into a Maxpedition Fatty pouch, to become part of the stealth antenna kit packed for our trip across the country.
Badlands National Park (US-0005) was one of the most spectacular parks that we visited on our cross-country adventure. I plan a future report with full coverage of the park and the activation, but the conditions in the park led me to make my first attempt at a truck-based activation. Shade was almost non-existent, the sky was cloudless, the air temperature was over 90°F, and the ground was too hot for POTA Dog Molly’s paws.
We pulled into a parking space at a roadside overlook, so that Becky could take some pictures, and I decided to try for a quick activation from the truck. After I set out a bowl of water in the back of the truck for Molly to drink, I pulled out my radio gear, and looked over my antenna options. I could have put up a mast and used a wire antenna, but I did not want to block access for other visitors, so my thoughts turned to the AX1 system.
The small size of the parking lot made it important to keep my operating footprint within the confines of my own parking space, both to avoid inconveniencing others, and to minimize the risk of damage to my antenna components. I decided to try attaching the AM1-2 clamp to the cylindrical base of my 2m/70cm mobile antenna, which is mounted on the front fender of the truck. The AM1-2 clamped on securely, and provided firm support for the the AX1 coil and whip. I also attached a counterpoise wire to the ground screw of the AM1-2, then tossed the wire under the truck to keep it on the ground, hidden, and out of the way.
That left two questions: could I get the antenna to tune, and would it radiate well enough to get contacts? I connected my feedline to the AX1, ran it in through the open driver’s window to the KX2, and quickly got answers to both questions: yes and yes. Continue reading K3ES: Stealth Activating with the AX1 Antenna System
Over the past few weeks, my buddy Mike (KE8PTX) has quietly made several YouTube videos I thought I’d share here on QRPer.com.
By the way, Mike is the fellow behind the new Explorer POTA20 Carbon Fiber Mast Ground Spike. You may have seen me use this in a recent field report and activation video.
In Mike’s first video, he describes the evolution of the POTA20 (and Carbon 6) ground spike system and its variations. As you’ll see, quite a lot of thought and engineering went into this simple design:
FYI: You can get the POTA20 mast at Gigaparts and one (or more) of the ground spike models at the Ham Radio Adventure Guy’s online store.
In this video, Mike demonstrates how you can easily hack a portable camera tripod to support a carbon fiber mast.
As Mike notes, “It’s a bit more to fiddle with than just a spike. But in the frozen north you have to deal with ground conditions. Get yourself a cheap tripod and give it a try. Will also work well when the park will not let you stick anything in the ground or use a tree.”
Click here to check out and subscribe to Mike’s YouTube channel.
Many thanks to John (N3AAZ), who shares the following notes from a recent antenna project:
Hi Thomas
For what it’s worth, here’s an easy, cheap, very lightweight, multi-band, no counterpoise antenna for portable ops.
This build took place on a rainy day at a campground in an 18ft RV and was inspired by an article written by Craig (WB3GCK): No Counterpoise Speaker Wire Antenna.
This antenna can be set up as an inverted V or inverted L.
I cut a 30/20 ft version to hang on a 32ft Jackite telescoping fiberglass mast. I read that several ‘random’ lengths, the 50/25 and 25/17, have also been successful.
Cut a 30 ft length of speaker wire (do not peel or separate it yet), then measured back 10 ft and peel off then cut only one side of the speaker wire twin lead. This will effectively create a 30-foot antenna with a 20-foot “balanced” feed.
You will then need a “BALUN” with unbalanced input and balanced output.
My 1:4 and 1:9 did not work because both ports are single-end BCN connectors soldered on a PCB.
Luckily, I also pack an MFJ 9211 (1:4 QRPocket Current Balun).
Using a NanoVNA and MFJ-902.mod.aaz (mod to form an L-network–more info on my qrz.com page) I measured less than 2:1 SWR on 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters.
The N7DDC ATU-100 reports…
It loads well.
My first 20-meter contact was a POTA contact with W4TTU (approximately 700 miles away), who gave me a 559 at 5W–he was 579 and signed “72,” so I assumed running QRP as well.
Not too shabby for an impromptu rainy day project hi hi!
72
John
N3AAZ
Thanks for sharing these notes, John! This looks like a fun little antenna build.
Many thanks to Micah (N4MJL) who shares the following guest post:
by Micah (N4MJL)
Anywhere and anytime—that’s how I like to describe my Elecraft KH1. This radio goes everywhere I go. As an airline pilot, I bounce from coast to coast and everywhere in between almost daily. Since I’m constantly on the move, my radio gear has to be small and compact.
I’m a third-generation ham radio CW operator. Anyone who’s heard me on the air knows I’m still quite new to CW. I only started running CW activations with POTA/SOTA in the spring of 2024. Here’s the gear that’s been working well for me, along with a few photos from the locations I’ve had the pleasure of activating.
I’ve found that the Pelican M50 micro case is the perfect “shack in a box” for my KH1. This setup goes everywhere with me. Here’s what fits perfectly in the M50:
In pedestrian mobile configuration, the KH1 is a solid system. I’ve done several activations this way. That said, after 45 minutes of holding the KH1 in this setup, I’m ready to wrap up! Having a portable shack that lets me deploy a random wire that tunes 40-15m and a more ergonomically designed key drastically improves my capabilities.
In many urban environments where I activate POTA, pedestrian mobile is essential. Unfortunately, the security in urban parks can be unpredictable, and the KH1 allows me to operate on the go and quickly move if needed.
Some of you may be wondering what I did to the inside of my M50 case. Well, in my defense, it’s my wife’s fault. She left me unsupervised with a glue gun and a bit of alcohol. When my KH1 arrived this spring, solar conditions were poor, so I had a few days to think and decided to turn the case into a makeshift Faraday box. I used Polyken aluminum tape, cardboard, and a glue gun to line it. Now, I know what you’re thinking: there’s no electrical bonding between the lid and lower box due to the rubber seal, so will this really work as a Faraday cage? Maybe, maybe not—but it sure looks cool! What do you think?
In addition to the M50 case, I carry a support pouch (Magpul DAKA, size small). This heavy-duty, water-resistant pouch contains:
These items aren’t essential but are nice to have for longer activations.
When I’m done flying and ready to play radio, I pack all this gear into my Flash 22 day pack. This compact, minimalist pack takes up almost no room in my flight bag and even has a built-in whistle on the chest strap, which is perfect for California!
When conditions allow, I enjoy using the full five watts of power. My go-to antenna is the SOTAbeams Band Hopper III, which is a versatile half-wave linked dipole:
The wire/guying winders are excellent, and I’ve used this system in all kinds of environments, from sandy beaches to mountain tops above the treeline. I replaced the aluminum tent pegs with plastic ones to keep TSA happier.
The SOTAbeams Tactical Mini Mast fits diagonally in my 22″ roller board. I wrap heavy rubber-coated wire around it to secure it to posts or shrubs when needed.
Along with this radio gear, I also manage to pack a change of clothes—usually enough for a five-day trip. I typically fly three trips a month, each lasting four to five days. My roller board carries me and my radio gear from plane to plane all week long.
On a short backpacking trip along the Appalachian Trail (June 3, 2024), I activated SOTA summit W4V/BR-007 Three Ridges and the Three Ridges Wilderness area (POTA US-9959). The mountain in the distance is The Priest (W4V/BR-002), which I activated earlier this year with my LNR Precision MTR4B.
The summit of Three Ridges is a densely wooded area, so I stopped below the summit to enjoy the view, grab a quick snack, and play some radio. I snagged two POTA-only QSOs with W8WZ in Louisiana and KU8T in Indiana using the KH1’s whip antenna. Once I reached the summit, I used the Packtenna 9:1 random wire for my activation. Continue reading Flying High and Keying Low: A Pilot’s QRP Adventures Across the USA
