Many thanks to Jonathan (KM4CFT) who shares the following note:
We are pleased to announce the release of some new products: a 100 watt version of the popular KM4CFT End Fed Kit as well as a Leg Strap, which is perfect for those who have the KM4CFT paddles, Bamakey TP-III or ModernMorse Paddles (or any small magnetic paddle).
Recently, @JasonMartinRF left a comment on my YouTube channel mentioning his excitement about getting on the air with CW but also his concern about the high cost of antennas—especially self-supporting options that don’t require trees. His comment resonated with me because many operators face the same challenge when setting up a portable station, particularly for POTA or other field operations.
I immediately thought of my friend Eric McFadden (WD8RIF), who has extensive experience with lightweight, affordable wire antennas that don’t rely on trees for support. Eric has long used a homemade end-fed random wire (EFRW) antenna paired with cost-effective mast solutions, making it a great choice for portable activations. I asked him if he’d be willing to share the details of his setup, and he generously wrote up the following guide.
by Eric (WD8RIF)
Because I’ve long used low-cost homemade wire antennas for POTA, and since I usually don’t rely on trees to support these antennas, Thomas asked me to describe an antenna and support systems I often use for my POTA activations.
My “Go-To” antenna for POTA is a 28½’ end-fed random wire (EFRW) antenna with three 17’ counterpoise wires. This antenna covers 40m through 6m (and sometimes 80m) and is constructed from inexpensive speaker wire which can be purchased at big box stores in 50’ and 100’ spools. This two-conductor cable can easily be split into two conductors and the thick insulation helps prevent the finished antenna from tangling.
The idea behind the EFRW antenna is that the length of the antenna is not close to a ½-wavelength on any frequency for which it will be used. The EFRW is not resonant on any band of interest and, thus, it requires the use of an antenna tuner (ATU).
The benefit of the EFRW is that it can be stealthy and lightweight, it can be relatively short when compared to simple resonant antennas, and it can support operation on multiple bands. It is true that this antenna requires the use of an ATU, but even an inexpensive manual tuner can be used for this purpose.
To construct my version of the EFRW, split the speaker wire into two separate conductors. Cut one conductor to a length between 28½’ and 29’ to create the radiator. Cut three more conductors approximately 17’ long. Strip a ½” or so of insulation off of one end of each of the four wires. If you wish, install banana-plugs on the stripped end; I put a green, red, or orange banana plug on the radiator and “stackable” black banana plugs on the three 17’ counterpoise wires so I can easily attach all three of them to a single “ground” post. Install an insulator of some sort on the far end of the radiator wire, or create a small loop on the far end of the wire using a knot or a nylon wire-tie for hanging the antenna. (I use military buttons as insulators on my field antennas, and I often use large paper clips to hang the wire to the top of my mast.)
You can connect the radiator and counterpoise wires directly to your ATU-equipped transceiver or external ATU using a simple binding-post adapter or, preferably, a 4:1 unun. No coaxial feedline is needed or, in fact, recommended.
I regularly use a simple binding-post adapter when I’m in the field with my Elecraft KH1 or KX2 field kits. I use a homebrew 4:1 unun when I’m in the field with with my Elecraft KX3 field kit. I use a commercial LDG 4:1 unun (link) when I’m in the field with my Yaesu FT-817ND field kit. (I should note that my KH1, KX2, and KX3 are each equipped with internal ATUs. The FT-817ND doesn’t have an internal ATU but I use a no-longer-available LDG Z-11 ATU with it when I deploy a non-resonant antenna.)
In the field, I suspend the 28½’ radiator as a vertical, as a sloper, or as an inverted-vee, and I lay the three 17’ counterpoise wires directly on the ground, arranged as symmetrically as possible while trying to avoid trip-hazards. (If space is limited, I might lay down only two counterpoise wires or, maybe, even just a single counterpoise wire.)
I usually support the EFRW with a 31’ Jackite telescoping fiberglass mast (affiliate link) or an inexpensive Goture Red Fox Super Hard 720 carbon-fiber fishing pole (available from multiple sellers on Amazon) from which I’ve removed the top three sections to create a sturdy 18’ pole that collapses to less that 30″. (If you order a Goture 720, be sure to order the “7.2m” version because the top three sections are far too whippy to support a wire.)
I’ve supported the 31’ Jackite mast using a drive-on base (more on this below), bungied to a fence-post or sign-post found on-site, and bungied to my folding camp-chair.
I’ve supported the Goture Red Fox 720 on a custom stake (more on this below) and bungied to my bicycle.
I often support my 31’ Jackite mast using a homemade drive-on base. This base is constructed from a scrap of 2”x10” pine about 23” long, a 4″ black plastic toilet flange, a 2’ length of white PVC chosen to provide a friction-fit in the toilet flange, and a PVC reducer at the top. The photos below should provide enough information for you to build your own. I don’t glue any of the plastic items together; I rely on friction to hold the pieces together and I slip the 2’ pipe out of the toilet flange for easier transport in my car. (Disclaimer: I drive a small Honda Fit; I don’t know how well a 2”x10” pine board would survive repeated abuse by a large SUV or pick-up truck.)
The spike for the Goture Red Fox 720 is simply a 7” length of white PCV just big enough to slip the large end of the mast into, with a matching PVC cap on one end drilled to accept a 3/8” diameter, 8” long spike. Originally, I tried using epoxy to secure the spike in the cap, but this failed, and now I’m using an appropriately-sized push-nut to hold the spike in place. (The PVC and the 8” spike were found at the local big-box store; the push-nut was found at a local well-equipped hardware store.)
I hope this article gives you some ideas for your own field operations!
73,
Eric McFadden, WD8RIF
https://wd8rif.com/radio.htm
A huge thanks to Eric (WD8RIF) for taking the time to document his antenna setup in such detail! His approach demonstrates that you don’t have to spend a fortune to get on the air with an effective self-supporting antenna system.
Personally, I believe that using an arborist throw line, a tree, and a simple wire antenna is often the most affordable and effective way to get on the air. However, depending on where you live or where you activate, trees may not always be an option. That’s why having a self-supporting antenna system in your toolkit is always a good idea—it gives you the flexibility to operate anywhere.
If you’ve built an affordable self-supporting antenna system that works well for your field operations, I’d love to hear about it! Feel free to share your experiences, designs, or recommendations in the comments or in a guest post. The more we exchange ideas, the more we can help fellow operators—especially those just getting started—find practical, budget-friendly solutions for getting on the air.
Wednesday, January 29, 2025, was a busy day, but that morning, I was yearning for a little POTA time. I carved out an hour in the late afternoon to play radio—just enough time for a quick activation on the Blue Ridge Parkway (US-3378).
I had two new pieces of gear I was eager to test:
Mike designed this clamp to be lightweight, durable, and versatile—it can attach to more than just a tabletop. He’s even clamped his AX1 to tree branches! As with all of Mike’s creations, it’s purpose-built for field operators like himself.
If you have a 3D printer, you can print your own, or you can buy a professionally printed version from Joshua (N5FY) at Tufteln (links below).
This Christmas, I received a surprise parcel. When I opened it, I couldn’t believe my eyes—a vintage Swiss Army rucksack in pristine condition!
Many of you know I have a soft spot for vintage military packs, and this one is truly special. Jack Carter, who restores these packs, wasn’t sure of its exact age but estimated it to be from the late 1950s or early 60s.
Specs:
Jack meticulously documented the restoration process, including deep cleaning, six rounds of leather cleaning, twelve coats of leather conditioner, and two cans of Filson Oil Wax applied with a heat gun to protect the canvas.
The result? A cavernous, beautifully restored rucksack that will accompany me on many POTA and SOTA excursions. At six pounds, it’s a bit heavy for longer hikes, but for moderate treks, it’s perfect.
I chose the TR-45L for its first POTA activation because I’ve always felt the TR-45L has a nice vintage/nostalgic look to it. It and the pack pair nicely!
Setting up the BNC clamp mount was a breeze. Mike designed it with a dedicated attachment point for the Elecraft AX2’s 13’ counterpoise.
After securing the antenna, I used the TR-45L’s built-in Z-Match ATU to achieve a near-perfect SWR.
Note: Unlike the AX1, the AX2 is a monoband antenna. Mine is set up for 20 meters, though the coil can be modified for other bands above 20 meters.
With everything in place, it was time to hit the air!
Note: All Amazon, CW Morse, ABR, Chelegance, eBay, and Radioddity links are affiliate links that support QRPer.com at no cost to you.
To make the activation more fun, I lowered the output power to two watts. Earlier in the day, 20 meters had seemed lifeless, so I expected a casual activation with space between contacts.
I was wrong. Continue reading Pure POTA Fun: A Quick Two-Watt Activation with New Gear and a Vintage Pack
Many thanks to Michael (OK7SE) who writes:
Hello Thomas.
Michal (OK1SIM) has put together an online map that might be useful for activation planning. You might want to check it out:
I usually activate “what’s available,” so I like that I can generate a map that aggregates SOTA, POTA, GMA, and WWFF for a target place (e.g., when I go to Austria for a trip) so I can see what’s nearby my accommodation, etc.
Click on the icon with three bars in the upper left corner and select your country. Then, you can select the activities you are interested in (WWFF, SOTA, POTA, etc.).
Then click the “Rebuild Map” button and the map will show you all of the activation entities you requested.
In order not to overload the application, you can either select WWFF for the whole world (which is the default) or various activities, but only for one country at a time, which is usually enough for trip planning.
If I am around country borders, I open two Firefox windows and have two countries at once that way.
72s,
Michael OK7SE
Thank you so much for sharing this resource, Michael. We’ve mentioned Ham-Map in the past, but it’s clear that it has only grown more comprehensive over time. It’s an incredible tool, and we owe a big thanks to our friend OK1SIM for creating and sharing it with the ham radio community!
UPDATE: The USPS has reversed this decision and parcel delivery has been resumed.
Many thanks to Eric (WD8RIF), who notes that if you live in the US and have incoming packages from China or Hong Kong via the USPS, you may experience delays. Here’s the story from the BBC:
The US Postal Service (USPS) said it has stopped accepting parcels from mainland China and Hong Kong until further notice.
Letters will not be affected by the suspension, said the company, which declined to offer a reason for the decision.
However, on Tuesday new rules came into force which closed a loophole that allowed small packages worth $800 (£641) or less to be sent to the US without paying tax or fees.
It was one of the measures announced by US President Donald Trump who imposed an additional 10% tariff on all goods imported to the US from China. [Continue reading…]
Here’s the official note from the USPS:
INTERNATIONAL SERVICE SUSPENSION NOTICE – effective Feb. 4, 2025
Effective Feb. 4, the Postal Service will temporarily suspend only international package acceptance of inbound parcels from China and Hong Kong Posts until further notice. Note the flow of letters and flats from China and Hong Kong will not be impacted.
Note that this doesn’t currently affect items shipped via UPS, FedEx, or DHL. You may take this into consideration before placing an order from China or Hong Kong.
Many thanks to Bob (K7ZB), who shares the following guest post:
by Bob (K7ZB)
I wanted to see how the (tr)uSDX would perform at lower voltages, so I decided to power it with a 6V Eveready lantern battery. With this setup, the radio delivered 1.1W to the antenna through an ATU-10, connected via 20 feet of RG-316 coax to a 20M Hamstick mounted off my condo balcony. I also used a wire counterpoise to complete the system.
Initially, I had planned to use a variable buck converter to step down the voltage from my 12V battery packs incrementally while measuring output power.
Unfortunately, the buck converter couldn’t handle the radio’s load and tripped offline each time I tried to use it. While it wasn’t suitable for this experiment, it’s still a handy and flexible little converter for other purposes.
Switching to the 6V lantern battery, I used an antenna analyzer to fine-tune the counterpoise length, geometry, and placement. I achieved an acceptable SWR just under 3:1 at the radio end of the coax, which the ATU-10 easily matched down to 1:1.
Transmit performance was promising—I received a 10dB RBN report from AC0C in Kansas City at sunrise, running 1.1W. I also monitored my own signal using an ATS-20 receiver inside the condo.
However, reception was a different story. While the transmit side worked well, the receiver performance was significantly degraded. At 6V, my Malahit (tr)uSDX, which is normally a solid receiver at 12V, struggled to pick up signals. The noise level was noticeably high, and I could barely hear anything. I’m curious if others have experienced similar issues when running this radio at lower voltages.
To compare, I switched to a Talentcell 12V 3000mAh Lithium-ion battery pack, and the radio instantly performed as expected. With 5W output, I quickly made a QSO with a station in Vermont—a night-and-day difference from the 6V test!
What a delightful little QRP rig this is!
73, de K7ZB
Bob
Gilbert, AZ
Update from Bob: There has been some interest in the AB7E antenna balcony mount designed for me and he is receiving requests directly as well as comments on the post.
From AB7E:
Well, I’m happy to provide the design files to anyone who wants to get them 3D printed, but it takes roughly 30hours to print them and I have no interest in printing and selling them myself. I would have to charge far more than it is worth. I made that one for my friend Bob because he wanted to mount his Hamstick to point out at an angle like shown in the picture, but in my opinion it would be just as effective (and far cheaper) to simply clamp the metal bracket to the balcony railing with a C-clamp or similar and have the Hamstick or other whip antenna point out horizontally. The bracket can be bought from Amazon: https://amzn.to/4aLVTR4 (QRPer.com affiliate link)
On Thursday, January 16, 2025, I had a long list of errands to run in town, including a session with my physical therapist. After all the heavy lifting and chainsawing I’ve done post-Hurricane Helene, my shoulder has been letting me know it’s not too happy. The PT sessions are definitely helping, though—they’re tough, but I’ve noticed big improvements, especially in how quickly my arm recovers after a day of chainsawing.
One upside to these sessions? My PT office is practically next door to the Blue Ridge Parkway. So, as a reward for putting in the work, I’ve decided to treat myself to a POTA activation—either before or after PT—whenever possible.
On this particular Thursday, my schedule dictated that the activation needed to happen beforehand.
To maximize my limited operating time, I went with my go-to minimalist setup: the Elecraft KX2 and AX1 antenna—a truly dynamic duo!
This activation was also my first opportunity to test the UMPP-1 mini paddle, a compact and lightweight Morse key designed for portable operations.
Back in December, Peter (GM0EUL) reached out to see if I’d be interested in reviewing one of his 3D-printed paddles. These have been gaining popularity among SOTA and POTA operators in the UK, and after taking a closer look, I decided to order one for myself.
What caught my attention was its small footprint and sturdy design—it looked like a key that could handle the demands of the field while fitting neatly into one of my self-contained SOTA kits.
Pricing with shipping is:
If you live outside these regions, I’d suggest you contact Peter prior to ordering.
I felt like $70 was a very fair price, especially with shipping included. More importantly, I love supporting independent makers in the ham radio world—these small businesses are what keep our hobby innovative and thriving!
As always, setting up the KX2 and AX1 was a breeze!
I then connected the UMPP-1 paddles—they’re certainly compact, but they felt great in the hand and quite sturdy. Despite their small size, I’m not too worried about them breaking when packed tightly in a field kit.
The default action and spacing felt just right to me, but Peter also includes a wee Allen wrench in the Altoids-tin-sized metal box that ships with the key, allowing for easy adjustments.
Note: All Amazon and eBay links are affiliate links that support QRPer.com at no cost to you.
After tuning the KX2, I decided to lower the output power to one watt. Probably not the best idea when using such a wee antenna and being pressed for time—but hey, life’s all about these low-power adventures, right?
I hopped on 20 meters and started calling CQ POTA. Continue reading Super Portable POTA: One Watt, One Tiny Key, Big Fun!
Last year, I mentioned—either in a field report or video—that I carry a full Elecraft KH1 field kit in my everyday backpack, my EDC (Everyday Carry) pack.
That led to a great question from Terry, a reader who was studying for his ham radio license at the time. He wrote:
“Thomas, thank you so much for the field report. I had never guessed a complete HF radio field kit [like the KH1] could be so small that it would qualify as a bonafide EDC.
I’m very curious—what other EDC items would you recommend, not just as a radio operator but in general? I suspect you’ve put some thought into this in the past.”
Great question, Terry! And my apologies for taking, well… several months to respond. Your message got lost in the shuffle when Hurricane Helene hit, effectively dropping an atom bomb on my inbox and free time.
To make up for it, I thought I’d turn your question into a proper post.
Yes, I do put a lot of thought into my EDC items. I’m constantly on the go, and since I never know when I’ll have time to write a field report, review, or even catch up on emails, I take my work with me. My laptop (a MacBook Pro) is a key part of my EDC.
And, as you noted, so is my KH1 field kit. It’s safely packed inside a Pelican Micro M40, so I don’t have to worry about damage if I drop my pack or something heavy lands on it.
But if I understand your question correctly, you’re asking about the other non-radio-related EDC items I carry.
Another reader/subscriber recently (as in a few months ago) asked for a full video tour of my EDC backpack, and I do plan to make one soon. That said, I’ll need time to prepare because—frankly—I carry a lot of stuff!
For now, though, here are ten items that are always in my EDC pack. Most of these aren’t directly related to radio, but they’ve proven their worth time and time again.
(Note: Some of the links below are affiliate links that support QRPer.com at no cost to you.)
This is my go-to multitool. It features pliers, screwdrivers (with a bit collection), a knife, a saw blade, a whistle, a fire-starting flint, a bottle opener, and more.
I firmly believe every field operator should carry some sort of multitool—it’s indispensable for quick antenna repairs.
I’ve said it before: a good headlamp is as essential as a first-aid kit, especially if you hike to your radio sites. This is my favorite headlamp for EDC, though I have many others. The one in my SOTA pack has a beefier battery and a brighter beam, but this Nitecore is perfect for everyday use.
I always keep a compact first-aid kit in my EDC pack. I typically build my own, focusing on cuts, scrapes, tick removal, headaches, stomach aches, and allergies. I keep a more advanced trauma kit in my car and a separate field first-aid kit in my SOTA/POTA packs.
This Anker power bank charges everything from my phone to my laptop. With a Tufteln converter, I can even power a radio in a pinch. It’s a must-have for keeping my gear running.
This is one of the most useful things I carry. It’s lightweight, insanely durable, and much better than disposable plastic cutlery when eating a salad or soup on the go. Such a simple item, but incredibly handy. There are numerous options like this on the market (many in durable plastic) but I like this particular one so much, I bought a second for my wife. Makes for a great stocking stuffer.
This small pouch holds an assortment of RF connectors—essential backups in case something in my POTA field kit fails. Because let’s be honest… something always fails at some point.
This little kit has saved the day more times than I can count. Unfortunately, I don’t think my particular model is still made because the company appears to have closed shop. Very unfortunate because it’s super high-quality and was made in the U.S.
You might still find them on eBay. I wrote this review on the SWLing Post five years ago.
A compact, absorbent, quick-drying towel is endlessly useful—whether for cleaning up a spill, washing up, or drying off gear after a sudden rain shower. I carry this 14×10″ size.
This little Swiss Army tool is a gem. It has excellent nail clippers, plus tweezers, a toothpick, small scissors, and a tiny knife.
Small, simple, and super useful.
I like taking notes, and this combo–a small Rite in the Rain pad and Graphgear mechanical pencil–is always within reach. It’s also my backup logbook when operating the KH1 in tabletop mode.
As I pulled items from my pack for photos, I realized one more essential: Loop Ear Plugs. A friend recommended them, and I got pairs for my daughters and me this Christmas. I’m easily distracted by loud noises when working, so I often use white noise or instrumental music for focus. I’ve also used cheap foam earplugs, but they aren’t comfortable long-term—especially for sleep.
These Loop Ear Plugs, however, are low-profile, lightweight, and so comfortable I forget I’m wearing them. They don’t block all sound, but they take the edge off loud, percussive noise while still allowing conversations. A game-changer for noisy spaces, for me at least!
Honestly, it was tough picking just ten (okay, eleven) items. When I look in my EDC pack, I see so many things I wouldn’t want to be without. Most of them are compact, lightweight, and boringly practical—but they make life easier.
I’m setting a goal to film a proper EDC backpack tour within the next month. It’ll be a long video, but I think it’ll be fun to go through everything I carry.
Of course, I’d love to hear from you—what do you keep in your EDC?
Last year, at the Tokyo Ham Fair, Yaesu unveiled the long-awaited FTX-1F portable HF transceiver. After years of speculation, we finally have a successor to Yaesu’s venerable FT-817/818 product line on the horizon—a radio series with an impressive run of over two decades.
I’ve enjoyed reading the flurry of comments that continue today from readers following the FTX-1F announcement many months ago. The reactions are all over the map, but overall, it seems the FTX-1F checks a lot of boxes for amateur radio field operators.
This got me thinking…
When I was first licensed in 1997, options for compact, portable QRP transceivers were few and far between. Sure, there were some kit radios and a handful of basic analog options, but almost no general-coverage QRP field radios. The only one that came close (besides the Argonaut II, which wasn’t exactly backpack-friendly) was the Index Labs QRP Plus.
Don’t get me wrong—there were some classic QRP radios out there, but they weren’t exactly compact. Tossing one into a daypack for an afternoon hike? Not likely.
Fast forward to today, and it’s a completely different story. The market is overflowing with QRP radios, offering something for every type of operator.
And that’s just scratching the surface. The past decade has brought an explosion of innovation in the field-portable space, making it hard to keep up.
Even better, prices have become more competitive. Adjusted for inflation, we’re getting more radio for our money than ever before. Sure, some options are pricey, but compared to 1997, we’re living in a golden age of QRP.
Case in point: my first HF transceiver was a used Icom IC-735, which I bought for around $700.
At the time, that felt like a solid deal for a full-featured HF radio that originally retailed for $1,150. Adjusted for inflation, that $700 would be about $1,371.83 today.
For perspective, one of the priciest QRP radios on the market right now is the Icom IC-705, which retails for $1,349.95 at time of posting. That’s $21.88 less than I paid for my used IC-735 inflation-adjusted.
On the flip side, if you adjust the cost of a brand-new, assembled QRP Labs QMX (roughly $200) to 1997 dollars, it would have been about $102.
Better still, if you’re willing to build the QMX from a kit, you can snag it today for roughly $102 in 2025 money.
Had the QMX existed in 1997? The kit price would have been $52.19 inflation-adjusted!
Sure, inflation-adjusting isn’t a perfect science—it doesn’t account for many other economic factors like manufacturing advances, material costs, or exchange rates—but it’s still a fascinating metric to use for perspective.
Talk about a bargain!
So, while it might sometimes feel like “the perfect radio” doesn’t exist or that prices are sky-high, I believe we’re actually living in the best time to be QRP operators. The options are plentiful, the innovations are remarkable, and the value for money has never been better.
What do you think?
In late December, I received a much-anticipated package from LnR Precision: my new MTR-3B V4 “Currahee.”
Life has been hectic, so I didn’t get the opportunity to take it to the field until Thursday, January 9, 2025, when I carved out some time in my schedule.
It was a chilly morning, with temperatures hovering around 20°F (-7°C). Still, I wanted the full field portable experience with the new Currahee, so I bundled up in my winter gear and headed out.
Rather than doing another activation on the Blue Ridge Parkway, I checked the Pisgah National Forest website and was pleasantly surprised to find that the Lake Powhatan recreational area was open.
When I arrived, the park employee at the entrance gate informed me that I was the only guest that morning. And what a morning it was! Despite the cold, the clear skies and full sunshine made it a glorious day.
The best part? No competition for picnic tables! Woo hoo! (We must embrace the positives, right?)
About 10 minutes before leaving the house, I hastily put together a quick field kit for the Currahee in my Pelican Micro M50 waterproof case.
This was a trial run to see how I might organize a fully self-contained kit for the Currahee, similar to what I’ve done for my other MTR-3B radios. While I didn’t have time to finalize all the kit components, I wanted to gauge the space available and determine what antenna, throw line, and other accessories would fit best.
Joshua (N5FY), a good friend, sent me a package over the holidays containing some of his latest Tufteln protective radio covers. To clarify, these were gifts; I didn’t pay for them. Among the covers was a brand-new design specifically for the Currahee.
Like all of his covers (you’ve probably seen the ones I use for my KX2, KX1, CFT1, QMX, and others), this one fits brilliantly. In fact, it might be my favorite! The Currahee cover provides a durable, low-profile solution that complements the radio perfectly. Makes it a very durable little package.
In the near future, I plan to create a more in-depth video about the Currahee, but my goal for this outing was to get it on the air and give it a solid break-in.
Although the Currahee features built-in capacitive touch paddles, they require contact with bare skin. I wasn’t keen on exposing my fingers to the cold, so I opted to use my trusty TP-III paddles instead. By the end of the activation, my fingers were still getting sluggish, but I managed to log plenty of QSOs.
For audio, I paired the Currahee with my Anker Soundcore Mini speaker and connected it to a 40-meter End-Fed Half-Wave antenna. This antenna is an ideal match for the Currahee since all three of its bands—40, 20, and 15 meters—are resonant. Kudos to LnR and Steve for these excellent band choices!
For power, I used my 9V Bioenno battery. While the Currahee can handle over 13VDC (making it compatible with a “12V” LiFePO4 battery), I prefer running my Mountain Toppers with 9V, which yields about three watts of output power.
Note: All Amazon, CW Morse, ABR, Chelegance, eBay, and Radioddity links are affiliate links that support QRPer.com at no cost to you.
I started the activation on 20 meters, which turned out to be a fantastic choice. Continue reading Chilly Morning, Hot Pileups: Testing the New MTR-3B “Currahee”
