Tag Archives: Bob (K7ZB)

Bob Tests the (tr)uSDX at Low Voltage

Many thanks to Bob (K7ZB), who shares the following guest post:


Experimenting with Low Voltage on the (tr)uSDX

by Bob (K7ZB)

I wanted to see how the (tr)uSDX would perform at lower voltages, so I decided to power it with a 6V Eveready lantern battery. With this setup, the radio delivered 1.1W to the antenna through an ATU-10, connected via 20 feet of RG-316 coax to a 20M Hamstick mounted off my condo balcony. I also used a wire counterpoise to complete the system.

Initially, I had planned to use a variable buck converter to step down the voltage from my 12V battery packs incrementally while measuring output power.

DROK DC Buck Module, Adjustable Buck Converter Step Down Voltage Regulator 6V-32V 30V 24V 12V to 1.5-32V 5V 5A

Unfortunately, the buck converter couldn’t handle the radio’s load and tripped offline each time I tried to use it. While it wasn’t suitable for this experiment, it’s still a handy and flexible little converter for other purposes.

Testing with the Lantern Battery

Switching to the 6V lantern battery, I used an antenna analyzer to fine-tune the counterpoise length, geometry, and placement. I achieved an acceptable SWR just under 3:1 at the radio end of the coax, which the ATU-10 easily matched down to 1:1.

Transmit performance was promising—I received a 10dB RBN report from AC0C in Kansas City at sunrise, running 1.1W. I also monitored my own signal using an ATS-20 receiver inside the condo.

The Receive Issue at 6V

However, reception was a different story. While the transmit side worked well, the receiver performance was significantly degraded. At 6V, my Malahit (tr)uSDX, which is normally a solid receiver at 12V, struggled to pick up signals. The noise level was noticeably high, and I could barely hear anything. I’m curious if others have experienced similar issues when running this radio at lower voltages.

Success at 12V

3-D printed hamstick AZ-EL adaptor design by AB7E

To compare, I switched to a Talentcell 12V 3000mAh Lithium-ion battery pack, and the radio instantly performed as expected. With 5W output, I quickly made a QSO with a station in Vermont—a night-and-day difference from the 6V test!

What a delightful little QRP rig this is!

73, de K7ZB
Bob
Gilbert, AZ

Update from Bob: There has been some interest in the AB7E antenna balcony mount designed for me and he is receiving requests directly as well as comments on the post.

From AB7E:

Well, I’m happy to provide the design files to anyone who wants to get them 3D printed, but it takes roughly 30hours to print them and I have no interest in printing and selling them myself. I would have to charge far more than it is worth. I made that one for my friend Bob because he wanted to mount his Hamstick to point out at an angle like shown in the picture, but in my opinion it would be just as effective (and far cheaper) to simply clamp the metal bracket to the balcony railing with a C-clamp or similar and have the Hamstick or other whip antenna point out horizontally. The bracket can be bought from Amazon: https://amzn.to/4aLVTR4 (QRPer.com affiliate link)

Bob takes a look at the (tr)uSDX

Many thanks to Bob (K7ZB) for sharing the following guest post:


A CW Operator’s First Look at the (tr)uSDX by Malahit

by Bob Houf  (K7ZB)  

April 22, 2024 – Gilbert, AZ

I recently bought an assembled (tr)uSDX from Amazon.com [affiliate link] in April, 2024, the mainboard is version 1.2 and the RF board is version 1.0.

Due to antenna limitations – a 17-foot wire antenna with a 6-foot counterpoise hanging from a second-floor condo balcony, matched through a Tokyo Hi-Power antenna coupler for an SWR well below 2:1 – I’ve been operating exclusively on the 20-meter band.

A short coax run into the dining room has given me some great on-air time over the weekend, with good band conditions for 20-meter CW.

The radio powers up when 13VDC is applied and I quickly figured out the menu structure with the minimal documentation available from DL2MAN.

I’ve learned that the filter is best set to 500Hz and it is effective for the conditions, and as the band gets hot with all the various weekend contests, I drop in a little attenuation and soon the radio begins to sound good – actually, for the money, it sounds really good.

QSK set to ON allows my keyer in Iambic B to do a good job and I don’t miss any contacts which are forthcoming across the US from Oregon out to the East coast, on down to the Virgin Islands and then, quite a surprise, my Magnificent 7 Watts is heard for a choice contact with a VK2 down under.

I pound out contest QSO’s all up and down the band, adding in a few SOTA and POTA stations and very few have trouble copying me – I certainly had no problem copying weak signals from them.

I do notice that this is not a $1,500 transceiver, especially in the receiver performance, but for the price the satisfaction derived from effortlessly working CW makes up for any limitations.

During the MST contest, as I write this, stations were piled on top of each other. I found that tightening the filter down to 50Hz wasn’t ideal – 500Hz worked better for my ears. Signals filled the band from 14.030 to nearly 14.050, ranging from very weak to extremely strong. Thankfully, the well-behaved AGC prevented any ear-splitting surprises.

I also tested SSB mode briefly and it works and sounds good, though I’m unlikely to use it much myself.

Overall, this little gem is far from a toy. With its filters, AGC, attenuator, and fine-tuning, it should bring a smile to any CW operator’s face.

Bob pairs the QRP Labs QCX+, ATU-100, and a super stealthy longwire

Many thanks to Bob (K7ZB) who shares the following guest post:


QRP Operation with the QRP Labs QCX+ and ATU-100 on 20M CW

Bob Houf (K7ZB)

By now the QRP Labs QCX+ CW transceiver is well known, and many have been shipped by Hans.

The first unit I bought came fully assembled in the aluminum case but had a weird malfunction in the audio chain and after careful troubleshooting with Hans’ help a replacement unit was sent and worked well.

I have assembled plenty of electronics kits in 60 years of ham radio, building some from scratch and  worked as an electronics design engineer for years so having someone else solder up a board now is a luxury I am happy to pay for – but if you like the smell of solder as smoke gets in your eyes and your hands don’t shake, by all means save some money and build one yourself.

I picked up a Malahit rendition of the N7DDC ATU – mine came from Amazon and is the 100W version that uses an external power supply.

My first setup was to see if I could power both the QCX+ and ATU-100 simultaneously from a portable 25800mAH charger bank with two USB ports.  The addition of two USB-to-12VDC converter cables looked like an ideal way to minimize the size of the radio package for portable operation:

Unfortunately, although the power capability of the battery was far more than adequate, when transmitting CW for just a few seconds the battery BMS tripped the power unit offline.

So, my next move was to use my larger 12V, 6AH LiFePo4 battery to power both units which worked well.

The antenna used here is a longwire of 47’ running from the top of our second-floor balcony out to a tree.  The wire is about 25’ above ground and runs between two of the 3-unit townhouse/loft condo building units. There seems to be little interaction noticed on the signal reports received due to the physical proximity.  And, when not experimenting with QRP I routinely run 100W from my transceiver into the wire without a problem.

This time, however, I decided to use #26-gauge magnet wire instead of the far stealthier #28 wire I have run for the past year.  A tree trimming gang went through earlier in the summer and took out my #28 monofilament tether line in the tree, so I decided to go with a larger diameter wire.

In both cases I sponge a thin layer of battleship gray paint on the line which helps conceal it when looking up in the sky.

One discovery from this version is that there is a BIG difference in visibility between #26 and #28 magnet wire as seen from the ground!

I took down the #26 and will revert to #28 – which is essentially invisible at 25’ above your head.

I run the wire directly into a Common Mode Choke which then drops down to another CMC designed for other bands so that with the two in series I have no shield currents and no circuit breaker tripping or RF in the shack issues on 40, 20, 15 and 10M, even running 100 Watts:

I have a very low noise level on receive and don’t use a Balun at the feedpoint of the antenna, but I do use an antenna tuner to match the impedance, either the built-in tuner of my Kenwood transceiver or the ATU-100 for the QRP rig.

The CMC’s were designed by a friend using the K9YC cookbook approach available online and are very effective.

QCX Operation

The band conditions over the past weekend were funky with high noise level and rapid fading at times.

Despite this, I made multiple contacts in the western USA with reasonable signal reports and only one station had to send “sri no cpi”.

On Sunday evening I stumbled into the K1USN Slow Speed Contest (SST) and enjoyed making contacts from the Midwest to the Pacific Northwest and everywhere in between.

Band conditions were much quieter and there were signals nearly every kilohertz from about 14.030 up to around 14.050+.

The QCX+ uses a CW filter design set at 200Hz and with 10Hz frequency resolution it was easy to copy one signal from another, despite the lack of more sophisticated filtering capability.

Since you only are putting out a 4-Watt signal you search and pounce with care and in a casual contest like the SST it makes for a very enjoyable way to spend an hour on Sunday evening before the SNF game steals you away.

Or a World Series game.

The ATU-100 was delightful to use.  Once it tuned to a decent match (1.33:1) on the wire, it was good for the entire span from the bottom of the band up to 14.060 where the POTA gang and other low power stations hang out.

In conclusion, this is a very excellent low power station, simple to use and I am looking forward to matching it with a clever 20M elevated vertical with elevated radials a fellow ham has designed:

The elevated vertical with coax connector and radials.

Once that is working, it is off to the Lost Dutchman State Park for some POTA fun…

Bob pairs his ATS-20 with the Zachtek “Flea” CW transmitter

Many thanks to Bob (K7ZB) who shares the following guest post:


ATS-20 configured with Zachtek “Flea” CW transmitter

The ATS-20 in HF CW Transceiver Mode

by Bob Houf (K7ZB)

I picked up an ATS-20 last summer and played with it on SWBC and the ham bands but found the telescoping whip antenna to be marginal.

The unit I purchased from Amazon turned out to be solid: no problems have surfaced after 9 months of intermittent listening. By default, I have enjoyed it primarily listening to FM in my office.

When I used my long wire antenna, the performance on shortwave greatly improved – easy copy of DX and the value of the receiver began to impress me.

Recently I came across a Swedish ham who co-developed a line of radios covering a broad range of WSPR and associated designs built to a very high standard.

Already having a WSPR setup I was intrigued by a very low power CW transmitter that Zach co-developed with KB9RLW which puts out 300mW on 40, 30 and 20 meters at a price point that is less than the ATS-20, and – most interestingly – the design of the radio allows it to work in transceive mode with the receiver by providing a T/R switch when used with the proper SMA-BNC cable arrangement.

I bought a “Flea” and configured it with my ATS-20 then used an external antenna tuner to make sure the transmitter had close to a 1:1 SWR.  The “Flea” advertises that it is robust to high SWR and looking over the schematic that is evident, but for the sake of a trial I went with the ATU. Continue reading Bob pairs his ATS-20 with the Zachtek “Flea” CW transmitter