Many thanks to André (VE2ZDX) who just shared two excellent tutorials for his free online ham radio tools:
Click here to view on YouTube.
Click here to view on YouTube.
Thanks for sharing this, André!
Readers: You can explore all of André’s free online tools on his website here: https://ve2zdx.com/toolkit/
Over the past couple of years, I’d been casually watching the used market for a Kenwood TH-D72A handheld. Last summer, I started searching in earnest—I wanted one specifically for portable full-duplex satellite work.
For discontinued gear like this, instead of waiting for one to show up, I’ll often post a “WTB” (Want To Buy) ad on a classifieds site like QTH.com. In the past, I’ve had good luck with this approach.
This time around, I did eventually find a legitimate seller and now have a TH-D72 in my shack. But before that? I had to navigate several scam attempts—five of the six replies I received were from scammers.
And let me tell you: scammers are getting much more convincing.
Although this happened to me last year, in the past couple of months I’ve heard from several readers who’ve lost serious money through online classifieds—sometimes for high-end transceivers.
One story in particular prompted me to finally dust off this post from my drafts folder and finish it.
Please note: this isn’t a comprehensive guide. It’s simply a rundown of the real-world steps I take and the red flags I watch for. As scammers increasingly adopt powerful AI tools and become more sophisticated, I think it’s worth sharing how I approach online swap meets these days.
I walk into every transaction—whether I’m buying or selling—with a healthy dose of skepticism. That may sound cynical, but it’s saved me from a lot of headaches.
Scammers can pose as both buyers and sellers. They prey on your sense of trust, often impersonating legitimate hams. QTH.com knows this too; before posting an ad, you must confirm you’ve read their scam policy, which is packed with great advice.
QRZ.com is the de facto database for amateur radio contact info. You need a QRZ.com account to view someone’s email address. If a person’s callsign profile has no email address listed, that’s a red flag. Scammers often impersonate real hams who don’t list an email—making it nearly impossible to verify their identity directly.
When someone replies to your ad, see how they contacted you. If they use your email from QRZ but don’t also reach out via the classifieds site’s internal classifieds contact form/messaging system (QTH.com or QRZ.com), be cautious. I usually confirm a response by emailing the address listed on QRZ.com directly and saying, “Hey—just confirming this reply came from you.”
In my case, TH-D72A prices range between $250–$375 depending on condition, included accessories, etc. Some appear for $400+, but those rarely move quickly. The first day I posted my WTB ad, I got three responses: two were priced well below market. All three were scams.
Scammers study the market carefully. They want to offer something just cheap enough to be irresistible—but not so low that you question it. The key is to know your gear’s current market value, both new and used. If it feels like a steal, slow down and verify everything.
I make it a hard rule: I never send money to someone I haven’t spoken with on the phone. This may sound old school, but it works.
What’s more—I’ve never had a legitimate seller refuse a phone call. In fact, those calls usually help build rapport and trust. Most sellers are happy to chat about the gear, how long they’ve had it, what condition it’s in, and why they’re selling.
If someone avoids a phone call or keeps dodging it? That’s a major red flag in my book.
Scammers now use AI to clean up their writing, correct grammar, and even simulate a natural tone. The sloppy typos and awkward phrasing we once looked for? Those are becoming less common.
That’s not to say grammar is irrelevant—if a message sounds “off,” trust your instincts. But don’t rely on spelling alone to spot a scam. Assume a message might be AI-assisted and ask deeper questions instead.
Scammers often reuse real images from previous listings or scrape them from the web. I’ve had five scam replies with convincing product photos and callsigns printed on paper. But every single one was fake–they used AI or a graphics tool to superimpose a callsign on a what looks like a white sheet of paper.
What I now ask for:
Two photos of the item, from two different angles, with a handwritten note that includes:
The note must be:
This request (mostly based on QRZ.com swap meet posting requirements) helps filter out scammers. Why? Because scammers almost certainly don’t have the item in hand—and they definitely can’t easily produce two unique images of the same gear and note from two different angles. This is something easily done by someone taking a photo of the item in front of them (simply reposition your camera for two shots). It’s extremely difficult to do this convincingly with AI.
As of mid-2025, AI-generated images still struggle with replicating specific devices like radios from multiple angles.
Bonus Tip: Compare the photo you receive to manufacturer stock images. If the item looks slightly off in terms of proportions, buttons, or layout, it might be AI-generated.
Here an example of an AI-generated image I requested:
The AI image, at first blush, looks reasonably convincing, but the notepaper is standing up on edge, the handwriting is super neat, and the image has a surreal quality to it—not like a real photo.
Of course, comparing the AI image with the actual Kenwood stock image (see below–taken directly from the Kenwood website) reveals numerous product discrepancies in button layout, display, size, etc.
If a seller pushes back too hard on your photo request or seems annoyed? Consider that a warning sign. If they’re not comfortable with this low-effort verification step, they might not be great to deal with down the line either.
The online ham classifieds are a great way to find gear—especially discontinued or rare items that don’t often pop-up at local hamfests. But the environment is changing. Scammers are adapting fast, and AI is helping them sound more convincing than ever.
I still love buying and (on rare occasions) selling gear this way—but I walk in carefully. This post isn’t a masterclass in fraud prevention, just a collection of my habits, red flags, and lessons learned. I hope it helps someone else avoid falling for a scam.
If you’ve got tips of your own, feel free to share them with us in the comments section. Let’s keep the community strong and informed.
Stay smart and safe out there—good hunting!
—Thomas (K4SWL)
If you’ve been following my field reports for any length of time, you’ll know I’m a huge fan of activating in wooded, remote, and sometimes… bug-infested places. But one thing I never take lightly is protecting myself—and my family (including Hazel!)—from ticks, mosquitoes, and other biting bugs that can really ruin an outing or worse.
Ticks are more than just a nuisance. In many parts of the world—including right here in eastern North America—they carry diseases like Lyme and others that can have serious, long-term consequences. They’re not just a seasonal inconvenience; they can be a life-changing encounter if you’re not careful. And our four-legged trail companions? They’re just as vulnerable.
Mosquitoes are no joke either. While disease-carrying mosquitoes are more prevalent in other regions, we still have occasional cases of West Nile Virus, and for those who are allergic, mosquito bites can cause serious reactions. At the very least, they’re a major distraction during activations.
Over the years, I’ve built up a toolkit of bug-defense tactics that vary depending on location, season, and bug density.
Please note: many of the links below link to Amazon and are affiliate links that support QRPer.com at no cost to you.
If I’m in a place like the mountains of North Carolina—especially outside of the heavy tick season (typically spring)—I’ll often reach for more natural repellents. Here are a couple I use:
I have a real love/hate relationship with DEET. It works, no doubt.
When I’m in an area with heavy mosquito and tick populations, I’ll reluctantly use it—but only as a last resort. I dislike the feel of it on my skin when I’m sweating. It also has this odd side effect: if it gets near my lips, it makes them go numb.
That said, it’s very effective and widely available.
Be aware: DEET can damage certain plastics and synthetic fabrics—your radio gear, GPS screens, and eyeglass frames included—so use it cautiously. Still, it’s more effective (from my point of view) than many of the natural options.
If I’m plotting activations in the backwoods of Alaska where mosquitoes are the size of birds? Yeah, I’m going to use DEET.
The brands I tend to use (although, honestly, I’m not sure there’s much of a difference because the percentage of DEET is a more important indicator) are:
Bug season usually overlaps with hot, sunny weather, so I wear lightweight, breathable long-sleeve shirts and trousers—typically light in color so ticks are easier to spot. I also wear a wide-brimmed Tilley sunhat, which pulls double duty as sun and bug protection.
I also pack a mosquito head net that fits over my wide-brimmed hat. Frankly, I rarely operate where I need to use this, but I appreciate knowing it’s tucked away in my backpack just in case. This net also works well if I’m hiking through an area heavy with gnats–keeps them out of my eyes!
Of all the bug-fighting strategies, treating clothing with permethrin has been the most effective for me.
I started using permethrin when traveling to rural parts of Belize where malaria-carrying mosquitoes are a real threat. I treated my hat, shirt, trousers, and shoes, and while my colleagues were constantly swatting bugs, I barely noticed them. Not one single bite.
My go-to product:
Sawyer Products SP649 Premium Permethrin Clothing Insect Repellent Trigger Spray (12 oz).
Important notes:
This approach is so effective, I now treat my summer hiking clothes at the start of each bug season and often re-apply half way through. I don’t live or activate in an area known for heavy tick and mosquito populations, so I can usually get away with only two treatments per year. The most important one is when ticks are most active in the spring.
There are other brands of Permethrin sprays out there as well. I typically buy my bottles via Amazon or at REI (where it’s often in stock). If you live outside the US, any camping gear or hunting store will have Permethrin.
You might’ve noticed in some of my evening or camping activation videos that I’m running a little device nearby. It’s a Thermacell Mosquito Backpacker Repeller—and I love it.
It screws onto a standard fuel canister and creates a small mosquito-free zone. I’ve used it with great success in some of Canada’s buggiest backwoods and on the coast of North and South Carolina in the evenings when mosquitoes come out in full force. One fuel canister lasts a very long time, and I often use it with the family when camping or picnicking. Highly recommended.
Note that you’ll want to keep a stash of Thermacell refills.
Since Thermacell refills aren’t cheap, I tend to stick with other repellents if I’m only performing a short activation or, especially, in an area where the mosquito population isn’t heavy. I do use the Thermacell when I plan to do a POTA rove (thus I can use the same Thermacell pad at multiple sites) or if I plan to stay at a site for one hour or longer.
Ticks happen, even with precautions. I keep a tick puller (or Tick Key) in my wallet during tick season. They’re inexpensive, lightweight, and super effective.
If you’re bitten by a deer tick in an area where Lyme disease is prevalent, consult your doctor as soon as you can.
Often, a short course of cheap antibiotics—often just two doses—can prevent infection if started early.
I feel that staying safe from ticks and mosquitoes is part of being a responsible and prepared field operator. Protecting yourself helps ensure your activations are fun, not frustrating.
Do you operate in bug-prone regions? I’d love to hear what’s worked for you—whether it’s a product, method, or even an old-school trick passed down from a camping buddy. Let’s keep the bites to a minimum and the contacts coming in!
—Thomas (K4SWL)
by Dave (KO4YLZ)
Like so many other SOTA activators, I’m constantly tweaking my gear to optimize it for all the variables we encounter in the mountains. One of my main antennas is, of course, an EFHW. Paired with my KX2, I generally get sub-1.6:1 SWR on 40, 20, 15, and 10. However, 30m has an unacceptably high SWR. I considered switching to a multi-link EFHW, but hopping up to change links to chase an inadvertent S2S on another band is inconvenient, especially when the link for low bands is generally well beyond my reach and requires lowering the antenna.
To fully optimize my EFHW I decided I needed to come up with a way to add a “remote” link for 30m. After a couple of design iterations, I came up with the light-weight and compact remote antenna link shown/described below. The version described here is not my final one. While this “pill bottle” version is still quite small, I’d like to reduce the size even further.
Let’s start with the end…
Here’s the final product. It weighs under 1 oz. and is ~2.5” long. I have included a complete parts list at the end of the article.
My design considerations were:
For those in a hurry, here’s a summary description of the remote antenna link. It consists of a very, very small remote control Bluetooth relay powered by two CR2032 batteries (user supplied). A set of contacts (either normally open or closed) lead from the relay to male and female 2mm bullet banana connectors in the cap of the pill bottle. Two matching bullet banana connectors at the antenna plug into the remote control link.
To operate, you simply open the bottle, switch on the batteries, re-install the cap, extend the antenna, and plug the bullet banana connectors at the antenna into the opposite pair embedded in the cap of the pill bottle. When you are ready to operate, you just push the remote button. When the remote button is pushed, the relay opens or closes thereby making or breaking the link and physically shortening or lengthening the antenna. Below is a picture of both sides of the mini-relay (antenna wire not shown)
The relay can run on 3.5-12 volts and can handle 1A. The included 1-button transmitter sends a signal (455mHz) to the relay and either opens or closes a set of contacts depending on how the user programs the relay.
I won’t bore you with a detailed written explanation…it’s a pretty simple build. Below are a simple wiring diagram and a series of photos with build details [click images to enlarge].
The relay has three operating modes: latched, momentary, and toggle. Because I wanted the 30m link to be normally connected when the relay is in standby waiting for a signal from the remote control and open and stay open when I pressed the remote button, I had to reprogram the relay. Programming is accomplished by turning the unit on, then putting a 22ga wire jumper between the two “programming dots” and then pressing the remote button until the LED on the relay board flashes the number of times specified in the instructions for the operating mode you want. The instructions are not very clear, so I recommend connecting the unit to your VOM in continuity mode to figure out the button/LED flashing sequence that corresponds to how you want the relay to behave.
The unit is rated for 1A so, to be sure I wasn’t going to blow it up when I transmitted with 10 watts, I used ChatGPT to produce a very nice graph showing the current at the 30m position on the antenna for each band when transmitting with 10W. Here’s the graph. Luckily, the maximum current at the 30m position (~43’) is .6A at 7.062 MHz.
I tested the unit on my KX2 by setting my operating frequency and then putting the KX2 tuner in bypass mode and pressing the button on the remote control; Ding…the SWR jumped immediately to the expected pre-determined (and acceptable) SWR value for the 30m band!
The unit draws 7mA when in standby and 32mA when the relay is energized. Assuming 40 minutes of operating off of the 30m band (relay not energized) and 20 minutes on the 30m band (relay energized), I calculated that approximately 17mA would be drawn from the two CR2032 batteries. Given that a CR2032 battery has a capacity of 220mAh, they should provide about 12 hours of operation.
Any questions, please comment.
Dave – KO4YLZ
Parts List
Note: The Amazon links above are affiliate links that supports QRPer.com at no cost to you.
Some time before Easter I noticed that I am close to 1000 QSOs at my favourite place at the “Kalte Feld”, a POTA and SOTA activation zone and would soon qualify for the POTA Kilo Award. I like the Kalte Feld for the quiet, spacious area with a hut that is vending traditional basic food and beverages – which in Germany usually means good beer and different sausage types (and other stuff – to be fair). I already wrote some articles about the history of the area and my activations.
The conditions at the activation zone are quite good. I have made 2 activations there with more than 100 QSOs (and many smaller), so I thought it should not be too difficult to complete the required QSOs in one day.
The weather for the Easter weekend was expected to be one of the first warm and sunny days this year. So, on Easter Sunday, I headed to the area to get the last missing 49 QSOs for my POTA Kilo Award. Easter hiking has a centuries long history in Germany. This and the nice weather made the area quite crowded. The close airfield for gliders was busy and the whole time while operating there they were in the air above.
The barbecue places and outdoor seating around the mountain hut were busy but happily the bench some meters away that I am normally using, was still available.
I wanted to start with an end-fed half-wave antenna for the 20m band, tied to a 10 meter (33 ft) fiberglass mast. This is a very easy and quick to deploy antenna and I like it, especially if there is not too much space for antennas with a larger footprint. Since it’s a straight vertical, it also has a higher chance for DX contacts – when the conditions allow that. The antenna is Open Hardware and you can find further details on GitHub.
The mast was tied to the bench and the antenna was raised. Besides the comfort, the possibility to tie a mast to it is the second reason why I am always looking for benches.
The conditions were far from being perfect, and it took me 40 minutes to get 18 CW QSOs on the 20-meter band. Switching to SSB wasn’t a big help either, and I soon gave up with only 3 additional SSB QSOs in the log.
I had brought another antenna with me that I wanted to try. The 10 meter (33 Ft) fiberglass mast also has the perfect height for a ¼ wave vertical on the 40-meter band. So I cut 5 wires to a length of about 10 meters (33 ft) and connected 4 of them together at one end with a cable lug and attached another cable lug to the vertical element.
I then used the basis of the JPC-7 antenna for the coax plug and for connecting the vertical element and the radials. There are a lot of articles and videos about ¼ wave vertical antennas. But the information is usually about either elevated and resonant radials or random length ground radials. I wanted to have resonant radials, but I could not be bothered with carrying all the stuff nearly 2 miles to a summit for elevating 4 x 10m (33 ft) wires, so I simply left them on the ground.
My idea was to try a full size vertical for the 40 meters band with resonant radials that still is portable and fits to my existing equipment.
The SWR was quite nice being close to 1.0 : 1 at the CW portion of the band, so I started operating.
The conditions were similarly difficult as on the 20-meter band. It took me 25 minutes for another 18 QSOs.
As it became increasingly cloudy, I checked on my mobile and saw that rain was approaching fast. Since I had roughly 2km or 1.5 miles descent ahead of me, I stopped abruptly with just 10 QSOs short of the POTA Kilo Award.
A bit disappointed, I called it a day.
I could not leave the missing 10 QSOs for long. The very next day, Easter Monday, was a public holiday in Germany. And as the weather started nice, I again made my way to the activation zone. Continue reading Experimenting My Way to the POTA Kilo Award
Many thanks to Karl (K5KHK), who shares the following guest post, which initially appeared on his ham radio blog:
by Karl (K5KHK)
For way too long, I have had the “Working from 200 different units” awards dangling in front of my face: I was at 197 unique parks activated. Only three more! Sunday 11/3/24 was a beautiful day with nothing else to do, so I was planning to hit the road. I needed three parks that I had not yet activated and I wanted them to be relatively close to each other.
A while ago, a created software that takes my activation stats from the POTA site and marks entities in New York with different colors and symbols based on there type and if I had them activated or now. I looked at the map and found the three closest entities that would not require “special equipment” like a boat.
The first one on the list was Honeye Creek Wildlife Management Area – US-9032 – followed by Honeye Inlet Wildlife Management Area – US-8642. These two are close to each other. My third planned park was about an hour away from the second stop: Rattlesnake Hill Wildlife Management Area – US-8626.
I got on the road a little later than planned – this was the day after changing the clocks back to standard time and I wanted to have plenty of daylight left.
At the first stop, everything went smoothly. I put up my 31ft Jackite mast with the 30.5ft random wire going to a 9:1 LDG Unun and a 1:1 LDG choke. The coax then goes to a LDG AT-200Pro II tuner and my Yaesu FT-857D dialed down to 5W. This is my standard configuration when I am operating from the car.
This was my first outing with a new key: The Putikeeg Mini straight key.
I started by looking for active spots on 40m and found one, a minute later, I had KD3D in the log. I looked for a free frequency, spotted myself and finished with 13 contacts in my log about half an hour later.
After a 10 minute drive, I set up at my second location. The little wrinkle in my plan here was that I had no cell coverage to spot myself. My last spot from the earlier park was less than 30 minutes ago, so if I would have called CQ without a new spot, I would have been re-spotted at my previous park. Not what I wanted.
There are of course ways to get spotted without cell service. APRS over HF is an option, SOTAMate via FT8 will work as well, but I wanted to try something new…
The recently released iOS version 18 came with a new feature: Apple has supported making emergency calls via low earth orbit (LEO) communication satellites since the iPhone 14, but until recently, this was reserved for contacting emergency services. With iOS 18, this feature was extended to text messages – both SMS and iMessages. Continue reading K5KHK: POTA Spotting via Low Earth Orbit
Over the past few weeks, my buddy Mike (KE8PTX) has quietly made several YouTube videos I thought I’d share here on QRPer.com.
By the way, Mike is the fellow behind the new Explorer POTA20 Carbon Fiber Mast Ground Spike. You may have seen me use this in a recent field report and activation video.
In Mike’s first video, he describes the evolution of the POTA20 (and Carbon 6) ground spike system and its variations. As you’ll see, quite a lot of thought and engineering went into this simple design:
FYI: You can get the POTA20 mast at Gigaparts and one (or more) of the ground spike models at the Ham Radio Adventure Guy’s online store.
In this video, Mike demonstrates how you can easily hack a portable camera tripod to support a carbon fiber mast.
As Mike notes, “It’s a bit more to fiddle with than just a spike. But in the frozen north you have to deal with ground conditions. Get yourself a cheap tripod and give it a try. Will also work well when the park will not let you stick anything in the ground or use a tree.”
Click here to check out and subscribe to Mike’s YouTube channel.
Yesterday morning, I replied to a message from a reader planning to obtain a vanity callsign. He asked, “Which [suffix] letters would make an easy callsign to send [in CW] and copy in your experience?”
This is a great question. I do have a few suggestions.
I suggest avoiding ending your callsign with a “K.”
I speak from experience.
I was not an avid CW operator when I upgraded to General over two decades ago. I was auto-assigned the following callsign by the FCC: KF4TZK
It was a mouthful in SSB, especially when articulated phonetically: Kilo Foxtrot 4 Tango Zulu Kilo.
When I started operating in CW, I realized how confusing it can be to have the letter “K” at the end of one’s call. If your sending isn’t near perfect—or even when it is—people will assume the “K” is simply “OK, back to you,” and they copy “KF4TZ.”
I got tired of correcting my call by sending back “KF4TZK K” to let them know the K was part of my suffix.
If your call ends with a K, there’s no reason to change your callsign unless you also find it gives you trouble. If you have a ‘2 x 1 call (a callsign with two letters, a number, and a letter) ending in K, it’s not a problem.
I would also suggest not combining too many letters similar in dit patterns, like “HSI” or “HSH.” Strings of dits can be complex for some to copy.
When I decided to apply for a vanity call and ditch KF4TZK, I consulted my dear friend and wise Elmer/mentor, Mike (K8RAT).
He said:
Write down all available callsign options you’re considering, then practice sending them. You’ll know which one “feels” right.
He was spot on: K4SWL felt right, and since SWL (shortwave radio listening) is what started my radio journey, it was a no-brainer.
If you feel comfortable sending a callsign—if the rhythm and cadence feel right to you—then it’ll likely be easy to copy on the other end.
Remember, this is a fun and creative process. Enjoy the journey of deciding on a new callsign!
In the end, very few “bad” calls are out there. It’s incredibly rare that I copy a call and think, “Wow—that’s a stinker!”
Even if your call sounds a bit awkward in CW—many do—rest assured, others won’t have difficulty copying you if your sending—your pace and spacing—is accurate.
Do you have any suggestions? Feel free to comment.
Interested in applying for a US vanity call? Check out this article from the ARRL.
Earlier this week, I mentioned that I purchased a Xiegu G106 in September. Its delivery was delayed because I had it shipped to my local post office, which, as you likely know, was flooded during Hurricane Helene.
With all the post-Helene chaos, I haven’t been able to do as much POTA as I’d like, so the G106 sat unopened in its box—until Wednesday, November 20, 2024, when I finally had a chance to take it out for its maiden activation at Lake James State Park (US-2739)!
Last year, Radioddity sent me a G106 on loan, and I wrote an in-depth review after taking it on several activations. That review was lengthy because radios like the G106—designed as price leaders—often have compromises that may not suit everyone. It’s essential to judge such radios based on their goals, not by comparing them to premium models like the Icom IC-705.
For the G106, the question I aimed to answer was: “Does this radio accomplish what it sets out to do?”
I believe its mission is to offer affordable field radio fun—capable of completing park or summit activations without excessive struggle, providing performance commensurate with its price point.
I decided to purchase the G106 because I had returned my loaner unit over a year ago, but questions about it kept coming from readers. Instead of requesting another loaner, I opted to buy one.
To my surprise, the pricing had dropped significantly. Here’s my order confirmation:
Interestingly, as I mentioned earlier this week, Amazon (at time of posting) has a Black Friday deal for the G106 (without accessories) $199 shipped for Prime members [QRPer affiliate link].
I’d have chosen that over the bundle I ordered had it been available at the time.
A common question from readers has been, “Would the Xiegu G106 work as a dedicated field radio for POTA activations?”
Most of these inquiries came from newcomers to ham radio, so I decided to test the radio in the field by setting it up from scratch—straight out of the box. This included attaching connectors to the power cord, configuring the radio, setting up the antenna, and hopping on the air.
I started the activation using SSB (voice) and later switched to CW (Morse Code) to give a full “out-of-the-box” experience.
The resulting activation video (below) is lengthy but was incredibly fun to film!
Note: All Amazon, CW Morse, ABR, Chelegance, eBay, and Radioddity links are affiliate links that support QRPer.com at no cost to you.
This activation was nothing short of amazing.
I began in SSB mode, using only the default mic settings. Despite operating at just 5 watts, I logged 21 hunters in 17 minutes—woo-hoo! While most signal reports were low, no one mentioned issues with my audio. I suspect results will improve once I fine-tune the mic gain settings. Continue reading Xiegu G106: From Unboxing to Your First POTA Activation (Beginner-Friendly Video!)
Many thanks to John (N3AAZ), who shares the following notes from a recent antenna project:
Hi Thomas
For what it’s worth, here’s an easy, cheap, very lightweight, multi-band, no counterpoise antenna for portable ops.
This build took place on a rainy day at a campground in an 18ft RV and was inspired by an article written by Craig (WB3GCK): No Counterpoise Speaker Wire Antenna.
This antenna can be set up as an inverted V or inverted L.
I cut a 30/20 ft version to hang on a 32ft Jackite telescoping fiberglass mast. I read that several ‘random’ lengths, the 50/25 and 25/17, have also been successful.
Cut a 30 ft length of speaker wire (do not peel or separate it yet), then measured back 10 ft and peel off then cut only one side of the speaker wire twin lead. This will effectively create a 30-foot antenna with a 20-foot “balanced” feed.
You will then need a “BALUN” with unbalanced input and balanced output.
My 1:4 and 1:9 did not work because both ports are single-end BCN connectors soldered on a PCB.
Luckily, I also pack an MFJ 9211 (1:4 QRPocket Current Balun).
Using a NanoVNA and MFJ-902.mod.aaz (mod to form an L-network–more info on my qrz.com page) I measured less than 2:1 SWR on 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters.
The N7DDC ATU-100 reports…
It loads well.
My first 20-meter contact was a POTA contact with W4TTU (approximately 700 miles away), who gave me a 559 at 5W–he was 579 and signed “72,” so I assumed running QRP as well.
Not too shabby for an impromptu rainy day project hi hi!
72
John
N3AAZ
Thanks for sharing these notes, John! This looks like a fun little antenna build.
