Category Archives: How To

Articles, How To, News, POTA, Skills, SOTA

Bitten By the Bug? Staying Safe from Ticks, Mosquitoes, and Other Blood-Sucking Nasties in the Field

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If you’ve been following my field reports for any length of time, you’ll know I’m a huge fan of activating in wooded, remote, and sometimes… bug-infested places. But one thing I never take lightly is protecting myself—and my family (including Hazel!)—from ticks, mosquitoes, and other biting bugs that can really ruin an outing or worse.

Why It Matters

Ticks are more than just a nuisance. In many parts of the world—including right here in eastern North America—they carry diseases like Lyme and others that can have serious, long-term consequences. They’re not just a seasonal inconvenience; they can be a life-changing encounter if you’re not careful. And our four-legged trail companions? They’re just as vulnerable.

Mosquitoes are no joke either. While disease-carrying mosquitoes are more prevalent in other regions, we still have occasional cases of West Nile Virus, and for those who are allergic, mosquito bites can cause serious reactions. At the very least, they’re a major distraction during activations.

My Defense Strategy

Over the years, I’ve built up a toolkit of bug-defense tactics that vary depending on location, season, and bug density.

Please note: many of the links below link to Amazon and are affiliate links that support QRPer.com at no cost to you. 

“Natural” On-Skin Treatments

If I’m in a place like the mountains of North Carolina—especially outside of the heavy tick season (typically spring)—I’ll often reach for more natural repellents. Here are a couple I use:

  • Repel Plant-Based Lemon Eucalyptus Insect Repellent
    This one’s a favorite. It’s DEET-free and surprisingly effective. I’ve even used it successfully in the Maritimes of Canada, where mosquitoes can be relentless. Every time I catch its scent, it brings back memories of hiking through PEI, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick.
  • No Natz
    A kind reader sent me a bottle last year, and it’s worked well so far in low-density insect areas. It has a milder scent than Repel, but I haven’t tested it in high-tick or mozzie zones yet.

DEET

I have a real love/hate relationship with DEET. It works, no doubt.

When I’m in an area with heavy mosquito and tick populations, I’ll reluctantly use it—but only as a last resort. I dislike the feel of it on my skin when I’m sweating. It also has this odd side effect: if it gets near my lips, it makes them go numb.

That said, it’s very effective and widely available.

Be aware: DEET can damage certain plastics and synthetic fabrics—your radio gear, GPS screens, and eyeglass frames included—so use it cautiously. Still, it’s more effective (from my point of view) than many of the natural options.

If I’m plotting activations in the backwoods of Alaska where mosquitoes are the size of birds? Yeah, I’m going to use DEET.

The brands I tend to use (although, honestly, I’m not sure there’s much of a difference because the percentage of DEET is a more important indicator) are:

  • Deep Woods Off – You can find these bottles in any local retailer as well. I find that their 25% DEET concentration works in most situations.
  • Coleman 100% Max – These bottles are small and easily fit in my backpack. It’s a very high concentration of DEET (98.11%) so I use it when in areas with a high concentrations of mozzies or ticks.
  • Repel 100 – These are like the Coleman bottles above (98.11% DEET) and you’ve likely seen me use them in videos in the past. I do like these pump spray bottles for backpacking.

Clothing Choice

Bug season usually overlaps with hot, sunny weather, so I wear lightweight, breathable long-sleeve shirts and trousers—typically light in color so ticks are easier to spot. I also wear a wide-brimmed Tilley sunhat, which pulls double duty as sun and bug protection.

I also pack a mosquito head net that fits over my wide-brimmed hat. Frankly, I rarely operate where I need to use this, but I appreciate knowing it’s tucked away in my backpack just in case. This net also works well if I’m hiking through an area heavy with gnats–keeps them out of my eyes!

Treating Your Clothing with Permethrin

Of all the bug-fighting strategies, treating clothing with permethrin has been the most effective for me.

I started using permethrin when traveling to rural parts of Belize where malaria-carrying mosquitoes are a real threat. I treated my hat, shirt, trousers, and shoes, and while my colleagues were constantly swatting bugs, I barely noticed them. Not one single bite.

My go-to product: 

Sawyer Products SP649 Premium Permethrin Clothing Insect Repellent Trigger Spray (12 oz).

Important notes:

  • One treatment lasts for six weeks or six washings. When applying on your clothes, the product needs to penetrate the fibers, so apply it quite liberally almost making each article wet to the touch.
  • Do not apply directly to your skin. Ever.
  • Let treated clothing dry completely (12+ hours) before wearing

This approach is so effective, I now treat my summer hiking clothes at the start of each bug season and often re-apply half way through. I don’t live or activate in an area known for heavy tick and mosquito populations, so I can usually get away with only two treatments per year. The most important one is when ticks are most active in the spring.

There are other brands of Permethrin sprays out there as well. I typically buy my bottles via Amazon or at REI (where it’s often in stock). If you live outside the US, any camping gear or hunting store will have Permethrin.

If I’m Stationary

You might’ve noticed in some of my evening or camping activation videos that I’m running a little device nearby. It’s a Thermacell Mosquito Backpacker Repeller—and I love it.

It screws onto a standard fuel canister and creates a small mosquito-free zone. I’ve used it with great success in some of Canada’s buggiest backwoods and on the coast of North and South Carolina in the evenings when mosquitoes come out in full force. One fuel canister lasts a very long time, and I often use it with the family when camping or picnicking. Highly recommended.

Note that you’ll want to keep a stash of Thermacell refills.

Since Thermacell refills aren’t cheap, I tend to stick with other repellents if I’m only performing a short activation or, especially, in an area where the mosquito population isn’t heavy. I do use the Thermacell when I plan to do a POTA rove (thus I can use the same Thermacell pad at multiple sites) or if I plan to stay at a site for one hour or longer.

Note: If You Get a Tick

Ticks happen, even with precautions. I keep a tick puller (or Tick Key) in my wallet during tick season. They’re inexpensive, lightweight, and super effective.

If you’re bitten by a deer tick in an area where Lyme disease is prevalent, consult your doctor as soon as you can.

Often, a short course of cheap antibiotics—often just two doses—can prevent infection if started early.

Final Thoughts

I feel that staying safe from ticks and mosquitoes is part of being a responsible and prepared field operator. Protecting yourself helps ensure your activations are fun, not frustrating.

Do you operate in bug-prone regions? I’d love to hear what’s worked for you—whether it’s a product, method, or even an old-school trick passed down from a camping buddy. Let’s keep the bites to a minimum and the contacts coming in!

—Thomas (K4SWL)

Antennas, Guest Posts, How To, News, Portable, POTA, QRP, SOTA

Build a Linked End-Fed Half-Wave Antenna with Bluetooth-Remote Band Switching!

20 Comments

A Remote Control Antenna Link

by Dave (KO4YLZ)

Like so many other SOTA activators, I’m constantly tweaking my gear to optimize it for all the variables we encounter in the mountains. One of my main antennas is, of course, an EFHW. Paired with my KX2, I generally get sub-1.6:1 SWR on 40, 20, 15, and 10. However, 30m has an unacceptably high SWR. I considered switching to a multi-link EFHW, but hopping up to change links to chase an inadvertent S2S on another band is inconvenient, especially when the link for low bands is generally well beyond my reach and requires lowering the antenna.

To fully optimize my EFHW I decided I needed to come up with a way to add a “remote” link for 30m. After a couple of design iterations, I came up with the light-weight and compact remote antenna link shown/described below. The version described here is not my final one. While this “pill bottle” version is still quite small, I’d like to reduce the size even further.

Let’s start with the end…

Here’s the final product. It weighs under 1 oz. and is ~2.5” long. I have included a complete parts list at the end of the article.

My design considerations were:

  • Small and light
  • Range of at least 75 ft.
  • Reasonable battery life
  • Waterproof
  • Durable
  • Able to withstand the current at the 30m position on the antenna
  • Doesn’t adversely impact antenna performance on other bands
  • Easy to connect and disconnect from the antenna

Executive Summary

For those in a hurry, here’s a summary description of the remote antenna link. It consists of a very, very small remote control Bluetooth relay powered by two CR2032 batteries (user supplied). A set of contacts (either normally open or closed) lead from the relay to male and female 2mm bullet banana connectors in the cap of the pill bottle. Two matching bullet banana connectors at the antenna plug into the remote control link.

To operate, you simply open the bottle, switch on the batteries, re-install the cap, extend the antenna, and plug the bullet banana connectors at the antenna into the opposite pair embedded in the cap of the pill bottle. When you are ready to operate, you just push the remote button. When the remote button is pushed, the relay opens or closes thereby making or breaking the link and physically shortening or lengthening the antenna. Below is a picture of both sides of the mini-relay (antenna wire not shown)

The relay can run on 3.5-12 volts and can handle 1A. The included 1-button transmitter sends a signal (455mHz) to the relay and either opens or closes a set of contacts depending on how the user programs the relay.

Wiring It Up

I won’t bore you with a detailed written explanation…it’s a pretty simple build. Below are a simple wiring diagram and a series of photos with build details [click images to enlarge].

Making It work

The relay has three operating modes: latched, momentary, and toggle. Because I wanted the 30m link to be normally connected when the relay is in standby waiting for a signal from the remote control and open and stay open when I pressed the remote button, I had to reprogram the relay. Programming is accomplished by turning the unit on, then putting a 22ga wire jumper between the two “programming dots” and then pressing the remote button until the LED on the relay board flashes the number of times specified in the instructions for the operating mode you want.  The instructions are not very clear, so I recommend connecting the unit to your VOM in continuity mode to figure out the button/LED flashing sequence that corresponds to how you want the relay to behave.

Testing

The unit is rated for 1A so, to be sure I wasn’t going to blow it up when I transmitted with 10 watts, I used ChatGPT to produce a very nice graph showing the current at the 30m position on the antenna for each band when transmitting with 10W. Here’s the graph. Luckily, the maximum current at the 30m position (~43’) is .6A at 7.062 MHz.

I tested the unit on my KX2 by setting my operating frequency and then putting the KX2 tuner in bypass mode and pressing the button on the remote control; Ding…the SWR jumped immediately to the expected pre-determined (and acceptable) SWR value for the 30m band!

The unit draws 7mA when in standby and 32mA when the relay is energized. Assuming 40 minutes of operating off of the 30m band (relay not energized) and 20 minutes on the 30m band (relay energized), I calculated that approximately 17mA would be drawn from the two CR2032 batteries. Given that a CR2032 battery has a capacity of 220mAh, they should provide about 12 hours of operation.

Any questions, please comment.
Dave – KO4YLZ

Parts List

Note: The Amazon links above are affiliate links that supports QRPer.com at no cost to you.

Antennas, Field Reports, Guest Posts, Homebrew, How To, Portable, POTA, QRP, SOTA

Experimenting My Way to the POTA Kilo Award

8 Comments

by Thomas (DM1TBE)

Some time before Easter I noticed that I am close to 1000 QSOs at my favourite place at the “Kalte Feld”, a POTA and SOTA activation zone and would soon qualify for the POTA Kilo Award. I like the Kalte Feld for the quiet, spacious area with a hut that is vending traditional basic food and beverages – which in Germany usually means good beer and different sausage types (and other stuff – to be fair). I already wrote some articles about the history of the area and my activations.

The conditions at the activation zone are quite good. I have made 2 activations there with more than 100 QSOs (and many smaller), so I thought it should not be too difficult to complete the required QSOs in one day.

DAY 1

The weather for the Easter weekend was expected to be one of the first warm and sunny days this year. So, on Easter Sunday, I headed to the area to get the last missing 49 QSOs for my POTA Kilo Award. Easter hiking has a centuries long history in Germany. This and the nice weather made the area quite crowded. The close airfield for gliders was busy and the whole time while operating there they were in the air above.

The barbecue places and outdoor seating around the mountain hut were busy but happily the bench some meters away that I am normally using, was still available.

I wanted to start with an end-fed half-wave antenna for the 20m band, tied to a 10 meter (33 ft) fiberglass mast. This is a very easy and quick to deploy antenna and I like it, especially if there is not too much space for antennas with a larger footprint. Since it’s a straight vertical, it also has a higher chance for DX contacts – when the conditions allow that. The antenna is Open Hardware and you can find further details on GitHub.

The mast was tied to the bench and the antenna was raised. Besides the comfort, the possibility to tie a mast to it is the second reason why I am always looking for benches.

The conditions were far from being perfect, and it took me 40 minutes to get 18 CW QSOs on the 20-meter band. Switching to SSB wasn’t a big help either, and I soon gave up with only 3 additional SSB QSOs in the log.

I had brought another antenna with me that I wanted to try. The 10 meter (33 Ft) fiberglass mast also has the perfect height for a ¼ wave vertical on the 40-meter band. So I cut 5 wires to a length of about 10 meters (33 ft) and connected 4 of them together at one end with a cable lug and attached another cable lug to the vertical element.

I then used the basis of the JPC-7 antenna for the coax plug and for connecting the vertical element and the radials. There are a lot of articles and videos about ¼ wave vertical antennas. But the information is usually about either elevated and resonant radials or random length ground radials. I wanted to have resonant radials, but I could not be bothered with carrying all the stuff nearly 2 miles to a summit for elevating 4 x 10m (33 ft) wires, so I simply left them on the ground.

My idea was to try a full size vertical for the 40 meters band with resonant radials that still is portable and fits to my existing equipment.

The SWR was quite nice being close to 1.0 : 1 at the CW portion of the band, so I started operating.

The conditions were similarly difficult as on the 20-meter band. It took me 25 minutes for another 18 QSOs.

As it became increasingly cloudy, I checked on my mobile and saw that rain was approaching fast. Since I had roughly 2km or 1.5 miles descent ahead of me, I stopped abruptly with just 10 QSOs short of the POTA Kilo Award.

A bit disappointed, I called it a day.

DAY 2

I could not leave the missing 10 QSOs for long. The very next day, Easter Monday, was a public holiday in Germany. And as the weather started nice, I again made my way to the activation zone. Continue reading Experimenting My Way to the POTA Kilo Award →

Guest Posts, How To, News, POTA, QRP, Skills, SOTA

K5KHK: POTA Spotting via Low Earth Orbit

8 Comments

Many thanks to Karl (K5KHK), who shares the following guest post, which initially appeared on his ham radio blog:

POTA Spotting via Low Earth Orbit

by Karl (K5KHK)

For way too long, I have had the “Working from 200 different units” awards dangling in front of my face: I was at 197 unique parks activated. Only three more! Sunday 11/3/24 was a beautiful day with nothing else to do, so I was planning to hit the road. I needed three parks that I had not yet activated and I wanted them to be relatively close to each other.

A while ago, a created software that takes my activation stats from the POTA site and marks entities in New York with different colors and symbols based on there type and if I had them activated or now. I looked at the map and found the three closest entities that would not require “special equipment” like a boat.

The first one on the list was Honeye Creek Wildlife Management Area – US-9032 – followed by Honeye Inlet Wildlife Management Area – US-8642. These two are close to each other. My third planned park was about an hour away from the second stop: Rattlesnake Hill Wildlife Management Area – US-8626.

On the Road

I got on the road a little later than planned – this was the day after changing the clocks back to standard time and I wanted to have plenty of daylight left.

At the first stop, everything went smoothly. I put up my 31ft Jackite mast with the 30.5ft random wire going to a 9:1 LDG Unun and a 1:1 LDG choke. The coax then goes to a LDG AT-200Pro II tuner and my Yaesu FT-857D dialed down to 5W. This is my standard configuration when I am operating from the car.

This was my first outing with a new key: The Putikeeg Mini straight key.

I started by looking for active spots on 40m and found one, a minute later, I had KD3D in the log. I looked for a free frequency, spotted myself and finished with 13 contacts in my log about half an hour later.

After a 10 minute drive, I set up at my second location. The little wrinkle in my plan here was that I had no cell coverage to spot myself. My last spot from the earlier park was less than 30 minutes ago, so if I would have called CQ without a new spot, I would have been re-spotted at my previous park. Not what I wanted.

There are of course ways to get spotted without cell service. APRS over HF is an option, SOTAMate via FT8 will work as well, but I wanted to try something new…

Satellites to the rescue!

The recently released iOS version 18 came with a new feature: Apple has supported making emergency calls via low earth orbit (LEO) communication satellites since the iPhone 14, but until recently, this was reserved for contacting emergency services. With iOS 18, this feature was extended to text messages – both SMS and iMessages. Continue reading K5KHK: POTA Spotting via Low Earth Orbit →

Antennas, How To, News, Portable, POTA, QRP

Videos: Mike’s Insights on the POTA20 Ground Spike and a Clever Tripod Antenna Hack!

2 Comments

Over the past few weeks, my buddy Mike (KE8PTX) has quietly made several YouTube videos I thought I’d share here on QRPer.com.

By the way, Mike is the fellow behind the new Explorer POTA20 Carbon Fiber Mast Ground Spike. You may have seen me use this in a recent field report and activation video.

Ground Spikes

In Mike’s first video, he describes the evolution of the POTA20 (and Carbon 6) ground spike system and its variations. As you’ll see, quite a lot of thought and engineering went into this simple design:

FYI: You can get the POTA20 mast at Gigaparts and one (or more) of the ground spike models at the Ham Radio Adventure Guy’s online store.

Tripod Hack

In this video, Mike demonstrates how you can easily hack a portable camera tripod to support a carbon fiber mast.

As Mike notes, “It’s a bit more to fiddle with than just a spike. But in the frozen north you have to deal with ground conditions. Get yourself a cheap tripod and give it a try. Will also work well when the park will not let you stick anything in the ground or use a tree.”

Click here to check out and subscribe to Mike’s YouTube channel.

How To, Morse Code, News

Choosing the Perfect Vanity Callsign: Tips for CW Operators

39 Comments

Yesterday morning, I replied to a message from a reader planning to obtain a vanity callsign. He asked, “Which [suffix] letters would make an easy callsign to send [in CW] and copy in your experience?”

This is a great question. I do have a few suggestions.

My previous call

I suggest avoiding ending your callsign with a “K.”

I speak from experience.

I was not an avid CW operator when I upgraded to General over two decades ago. I was auto-assigned the following callsign by the FCC: KF4TZK

It was a mouthful in SSB, especially when articulated phonetically: Kilo Foxtrot 4 Tango Zulu Kilo.

When I started operating in CW, I realized how confusing it can be to have the letter “K” at the end of one’s call. If your sending isn’t near perfect—or even when it is—people will assume the “K” is simply “OK, back to you,” and they copy “KF4TZ.”

I got tired of correcting my call by sending back “KF4TZK K” to let them know the K was part of my suffix.

If your call ends with a K, there’s no reason to change your callsign unless you also find it gives you trouble. If you have a ‘2 x 1 call  (a callsign with two letters, a number, and a letter) ending in K, it’s not a problem.

I would also suggest not combining too many letters similar in dit patterns, like “HSI” or “HSH.” Strings of dits can be complex for some to copy.

Best advice?

When I decided to apply for a vanity call and ditch KF4TZK, I consulted my dear friend and wise Elmer/mentor, Mike (K8RAT).

He said:

Write down all available callsign options you’re considering, then practice sending them. You’ll know which one “feels” right.

He was spot on: K4SWL felt right, and since SWL (shortwave radio listening) is what started my radio journey, it was a no-brainer.

If you feel comfortable sending a callsign—if the rhythm and cadence feel right to you—then it’ll likely be easy to copy on the other end.

Final thoughts

Remember, this is a fun and creative process. Enjoy the journey of deciding on a new callsign!

In the end, very few “bad” calls are out there. It’s incredibly rare that I copy a call and think, “Wow—that’s a stinker!”

Even if your call sounds a bit awkward in CW—many do—rest assured, others won’t have difficulty copying you if your sending—your pace and spacing—is accurate.

What do you think?

Do you have any suggestions? Feel free to comment.

Interested in applying for a US vanity call? Check out this article from the ARRL. 

Field Reports, How To, Morse Code, News, Portable, POTA, QRP, QRP Radios, SSB, Videos

Xiegu G106: From Unboxing to Your First POTA Activation (Beginner-Friendly Video!)

20 Comments

Earlier this week, I mentioned that I purchased a Xiegu G106 in September. Its delivery was delayed because I had it shipped to my local post office, which, as you likely know, was flooded during Hurricane Helene.

With all the post-Helene chaos, I haven’t been able to do as much POTA as I’d like, so the G106 sat unopened in its box—until Wednesday, November 20, 2024, when I finally had a chance to take it out for its maiden activation at Lake James State Park (US-2739)!

Why the Xiegu G106?

Last year, Radioddity sent me a G106 on loan, and I wrote an in-depth review after taking it on several activations. That review was lengthy because radios like the G106—designed as price leaders—often have compromises that may not suit everyone. It’s essential to judge such radios based on their goals, not by comparing them to premium models like the Icom IC-705.

For the G106, the question I aimed to answer was: “Does this radio accomplish what it sets out to do?”

I believe its mission is to offer affordable field radio fun—capable of completing park or summit activations without excessive struggle, providing performance commensurate with its price point.

I decided to purchase the G106 because I had returned my loaner unit over a year ago, but questions about it kept coming from readers. Instead of requesting another loaner, I opted to buy one.

To my surprise, the pricing had dropped significantly. Here’s my order confirmation:

Interestingly, as I mentioned earlier this week, Amazon (at time of posting) has a Black Friday deal for the G106 (without accessories) $199 shipped for Prime members [QRPer affiliate link].

I’d have chosen that over the bundle I ordered had it been available at the time.

Unboxing to Activation

It was a rainy day at Lake James.

A common question from readers has been, “Would the Xiegu G106 work as a dedicated field radio for POTA activations?”

Perfect weather to set up in a picnic shelter!

Most of these inquiries came from newcomers to ham radio, so I decided to test the radio in the field by setting it up from scratch—straight out of the box. This included attaching connectors to the power cord, configuring the radio, setting up the antenna, and hopping on the air.

This is a lot of picnic shelter for such a small radio setup!

I started the activation using SSB (voice) and later switched to CW (Morse Code) to give a full “out-of-the-box” experience.

The resulting activation video (below) is lengthy but was incredibly fun to film!

Gear:

Note: All Amazon, CW Morse, ABR, Chelegance, eBay, and Radioddity links are affiliate links that support QRPer.com at no cost to you.

Radio

Antenna & Cable Assembly

Throw Line

Pack

Logging Supplies

Key and Cable

Battery and Power Distribution

Camera/Audio Gear

Misc

On The Air

This activation was nothing short of amazing.

I began in SSB mode, using only the default mic settings. Despite operating at just 5 watts, I logged 21 hunters in 17 minutes—woo-hoo! While most signal reports were low, no one mentioned issues with my audio. I suspect results will improve once I fine-tune the mic gain settings. Continue reading Xiegu G106: From Unboxing to Your First POTA Activation (Beginner-Friendly Video!) →

Antennas, How To, News, Portable, QRP

John’s Rainy Day Antenna Project Notes

12 Comments

Many thanks to John (N3AAZ), who shares the following notes from a recent antenna project:

Hi Thomas

For what it’s worth, here’s an easy, cheap, very lightweight, multi-band, no counterpoise antenna for portable ops.

This build took place on a rainy day at a campground in an 18ft RV and was inspired by an article written by Craig (WB3GCK): No Counterpoise Speaker Wire Antenna.

This antenna can be set up as an inverted V or inverted L.

I cut a 30/20 ft version to hang on a 32ft Jackite telescoping fiberglass mast. I read that several ‘random’ lengths, the 50/25 and 25/17, have also been successful.

Cut a 30 ft length of speaker wire (do not peel or separate it yet), then measured back 10 ft and peel off then cut only one side of the speaker wire twin lead. This will effectively create a 30-foot antenna with a 20-foot “balanced” feed.

You will then need a “BALUN” with unbalanced input and balanced output.

My 1:4 and 1:9 did not work because both ports are single-end BCN connectors soldered on a PCB.

Luckily, I also pack an MFJ 9211 (1:4 QRPocket Current Balun).

Using a NanoVNA and MFJ-902.mod.aaz (mod to form an L-network–more info on my qrz.com page) I measured less than 2:1 SWR on 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters.

The N7DDC ATU-100 reports…

    • 1.18 :1 SWR on 15M
    • 1.03 on 20M
    • 1.16 on 30M
    • 1.88 0n 40M

It loads well.

My first 20-meter contact was a POTA contact with W4TTU (approximately 700 miles away), who gave me a 559 at 5W–he was 579 and signed “72,” so I assumed running QRP as well.

Not too shabby for an impromptu rainy day project hi hi!

72
John
N3AAZ

Thanks for sharing these notes, John! This looks like a fun little antenna build.

How To, Kits, News, Videos

Video: Alan (W2AEW) Builds the CFT1 5-Band CW Field Transceiver

3 Comments

Our friend Alan (W2AEW) has just posted a video showing the process of building, adjusting, and aligning the CFT1 5-band CW portable transceiver. If you’ve been thinking about building a CFT1 kit, this video will help guide you [update: see note from Alan below]:

Click here to view on YouTube.

Thank you for making this tutorial, Alan!

Articles, Digital Modes, Guest Posts, How To, Portable, QRP, QRPp

Beyond the Beacon: Conrad Discovers the Unexpected Benefits of WSPR

33 Comments

Many thanks to Conrad (N2YCH) who shares the following field report:

QRPppppp….WSPR

By: Conrad Trautmann (N2YCH)

WSPR, or Weak Signal Propagation Reporter, is a digital mode you can select within WSJT-X. You can use the data that’s generated by the WSPR network to check your own antenna’s performance for transmitting and receiving and also to see what paths are open by band at a particular time of day from your QTH. Recently, I’ve been using WSPR to improve my own antenna systems and to help reduce local noise sources.

Originally developed by Joe Taylor, K1JT, an approximately two minute QRP transmission contains the originating station’s call sign, the maidenhead grid locator and the transmit power level being used. Stations typically use 250mw up to 5watts when they send these signals. WSJT-X allows you to select how often you want to send this transmission and what bands to transmit on. There’s an embedded schedule in WSJT-X that allows “band-hopping” for stations using a multiband antenna to transmit on different bands. When not transmitting, it listens for and decodes other stations transmitting and can post “spots” of those stations to the WSPR network database.

WSJT-X WSPR mode
WSPR Band Hopping Schedule (click to enlarge)

Here on QRPer.com, Thomas, K4SWL posted in this field report what the various flavors of QRP power levels are…

  • QRP: 5 watts to 1 watt (for some contest 10 watts = SSB QRP)
  • QRPp: Less than 1 watt to 100 mw
  • QRPpp: Less than 100mw

Did you know that there are more than 3,000 WSPR HF beacons running on all of the amateur bands all over the world at QRP power or less? Many are running 250mw or less. If you open up WSJT-X and select the WSPR mode, you’ll see that the pull down for power levels give you these options:

  • 37dbm = 5w
  • 33dbm = 2w
  • 30dbm = 1w
  • 27dbm = 500mw
  • 23dbm = 200mw
  • 20dbm = 100mw
  • 17dbm = 50mw
  • 13dbm = 20mw
  • 10dbm = 10mw
  • 7dbm = 5mw
  • 3dbm = 2mw
  • 0dbm = 1mw

You could transmit your own beacon if you choose to using WSJT-X. You can also receive many of the 3,000+ beacons that are on the air right now if you wanted.

Why, you ask?

Let me tell you about the WSPR journey I’ve taken over the past few months and how what I’ve learned has benefitted me, my station and my antennas. Here’s how extreme QRPpp signals can help all of us.

I’m an avid digital operator, and I’ve tested many of the digital modes that WSJT-X, FLDigi, VarAC and others have to offer.

WSPR (Weak Signal Propagation Reporter) is a program embedded as a mode in WSJT-X and you can set it to transmit at the various power levels I listed above and band hop to different bands if your antenna can support those frequencies. When it’s not transmitting, it will receive and post the beacons it hears to the WSPRnet.org web site. For anyone familiar with pskreporter.info, WSPRnet.org is similar in that it provides maps of where and when “spots” are received and the relative signal strength the signals were when received by station, the mode and frequency.

After setting my station to transmit and receive on WSPR and looking at my spots on WSPRnet.org that were reported by receiving stations over the previous day, it was a thrill to see my 250mw signal making it out all over the world. Amazing actually, that such a small amount of power could travel that far. 250mw to Antarctica? That’s pretty good.

I bought a QRP-Labs QCX transceiver and the external companion GPS clock, which supports running WSPR transmission stand alone, without tying up a computer. Then I learned about the Sotabeams WSPRLite Antenna Tester (a 250mw WSPR transmitter) and the various WSPR transmitters offered by ZachTek which can also run without needing a computer.

My goal was to have WSPR beacons transmitting on as many bands as possible. Combining them into a single, multiband antenna posed its own problems, which is a topic for another article. However, all of these solutions just transmitted. I was hoping to also be able to receive and post spots as well.

Then, QRP-Labs (shout out to Hans Summers) came out with the QDX and then the QMX, both of which connect to a PC and are controlled by WSJT-X to do the band hopping transmitting and receiving. Like FT8, WSPR does depend on timing to work best, so using an external GPS clock for the QCX or connecting a QDX or QMX to a computer that can get it’s time from the internet can help keep the transmission cycles in sync with the receiver sites for best reception results.

Various WSPR transmitters and transceivers

This is cool stuff, but still, what’s the point? That’s when a friend I made in the WSPR community, Tom, WA2TP pointed out how to use all of these beacons to improve my station’s receiving capabilities. I have a good HF receiver and a dipole antenna and a hexbeam on a rotor and I figured I was good to go. I was making contacts without any problems. Tom told me this: “It’s all about the noise.”

He recommended using a wideband SDR called a Kiwi that can view the entire HF spectrum from 0 -30MHz on a waterfall at one time. My ICOM IC-7610 can connect to a PC and work with HDSDR software which has a waterfall, but it will only show you the spectrum of the particular band you’re on, not the entire HF spectrum at once. The Kiwi shows the entire spectrum from 0 to 30 MHz and when set up just right, you can see noise in there…a lot of noise, emanating from all sorts of things.

If you’re trying to receive a 250mw WSPR beacon signal transmitting from Australia, the noise from the after-market, wall-wart switching power supply connected to your cell phone charger a few feet away from your antenna could be way noisier and will blank that VK beacon right out. Your antenna and ability to hear distant signals is only as good as how low or quiet the local QRM is that we all have to deal with.

So began my hunt for noise, with a lot of guidance from folks with experience at it. Continue reading Beyond the Beacon: Conrad Discovers the Unexpected Benefits of WSPR →