Category Archives: Field Radio Kits

A Strong Case for the (tr)uSDX: Jamie’s Perspective

Readers, there’s a bit of a backstory to this guest post by my friend Jamie (AA4K). During the W4SOTA campout in October 2023, Jamie showed me his favorite field radio: the (tr)uSDX. I’ve used the (tr)uSDX for a couple of activations, but I’ll be honest—I haven’t exactly shown it a lot of love. I’ve even complained about its audio and receiver performance in the past. Jamie, on the other hand, really enjoys using his and makes a solid case for it as a field radio.

Jamie showing me his (tr)uSDX during the W4SOTA campout.

I asked if he’d be willing to write a guest post for QRPer, and he agreed (eventually!). When I saw him at Hamvention this year, he told me the article was ready—and in true form, he sent it to me via Winlink… using his (tr)uSDX.


A Case for the (tr)USDX

by Jamie (AA4K)

Introduction

There are many factors that must be considered when choosing a field radio. How big and heavy is the radio? How hard is it to repair or replace the radio if it becomes damaged or lost? How hard is the radio to operate? How power-efficient is the radio? Does the radio have the desired/required modes and features? Of course, the most fundamental question is, “Does the radio work?” I will try to answer these questions as I lay out… a case for the (tr)USDX as perhaps an almost perfect field radio.

The last two contacts on this page were with my friends Carlos (KB4CO, now AE2W) and Thomas (K4SWL).

How big and heavy is it?

The first question is an easy one. Aside from small home-brew radios such as K6ARK’s “Choking Hazard”, there isn’t a smaller or lighter commercially available radio out there that I am aware of. The (tr)USDX measures 112 x 61 x 50 mm (I trimmed the encoder post and used a lower profile knob), and weighs 5.3 oz, or 151 g. The next closest currently available commercial radio is perhaps the QRP Labs QMX. This radio is very comparable in size (110 x 64 x 38 mm) and cost, but it does weigh more at 7.3 oz, or 207 g. The more rugged metal case probably plays a big part in the weight difference.

(tr)USDX with a modified case I designed to use the radio as the antenna winder.

How hard is it to replace or repair it?

The (tr)USDX is often sold as a kit for about US$86 (+$20 for the case) [QRPer affiliate links]. Any repairs should simply involve desoldering affected components and replacing, or possibly just updating the firmware. I am a relative noob when it comes to kit building and this kit is honestly not very difficult to build… about one day. The instructions and support videos provided by the hardware developer, Manuel DL2MAN, are very thorough. I learned a lot about radios from building the kit. If you have no interest in kit building, the assembled radio can currently be purchased from Amazon for US$138, complete with a case. Whether purchased as a kit, or already built, the band pass filters on the radio board will need to be tweaked to get the most out of your radio.

How hard is it to operate?

The (tr)USDX only has 4 buttons including the rotary encoder: Menu, Encoder, Enter, and PTT. The Menu and Encoder cover the majority of the adjustments, and most of the time I don’t use the Enter and PTT buttons. The PTT functions only as a ptt or cw key depending on the mode (yes, if your key breaks mid activation, you have a built-in backup key). The single-layer menu system is simple to scroll through, and the most commonly used items are near the front of the menu.

The most challenging aspect of operation for some people is the tiny OLED screen which gets obliterated in bright light. Reading glasses do help, although when you become familiar with the menu are not as important. I would love to see a version with an e-ink display and, more importantly, a push-button wheel rotary encoder (to remove the protruding knob).

How power-efficient is it?

This radio sips power. I tested the radio I built using a LiFePO4 battery that supplied 13.56v. The current draw on receive is 66.1 mA, and 570 mA on CW keydown into a dummy load. A properly tuned (tr)USDX delivers about 5w on each of the five bands when fed ~12v. A set of three 18650s in series will provide the proper voltage and power the radio through many activations.

Does the radio have the desired/required modes and features?

The (tr)USDX is not for princesses. It is a minimalist’s radio. But if you start from the perspective of an ultralight backpacker who has to justify every gram in their kit, this radio checks all of the boxes. It is a five band radio (Low, Classic, and High band models available). It is capable of doing voice, cw and digital modes. Thanks to a beta update from the firmware developer, Guido PE1NNZ, this radio will interface with a computer without requiring a soundcard. One of my favorite features of the radio is the built-in SWR meter. With the SWR feature enabled in the menu, just put the radio in CW mode and press the PTT to find out if your radio is happy with the current antenna arrangement.

This photo was taken while sending the text of this article via Winlink to Thomas, K4SWL.

Does the radio work?

Although my total activation count is nowhere near as high as many of you, I have used the (tr)USDX for a majority of my successful POTA (156 as of this writing) and SOTA (72 as of this writing) activations. My confidence in this little radio was demonstrated when I used it on an ATNO activation of Admiralty Island National Monument (US-4537) in Alaska.

Conclusion

One reason why I like to participate in SOTA and POTA is that it gives me an opportunity to practice field radio deployment and operation with the goal of being ready to communicate anywhere and anytime. This level of readiness means that I have the necessary equipment with me all the time. For me, the (tr)USDX is my EDC (every day carry) radio. It can bounce around in my backpack (in its protective case, of course) and be ready to deploy if needed. If it were to get lost or broken, I can fix or replace it easily. And I find it to be easy enough to use with the understanding that it isn’t a luxury radio.

The author at ~11,000’ in Uncompahgre National Forest.

Video

Click here to view on YouTube.

(tr)uSDX Winder Case:

Click here to download the print file for Jamie’s the modified (tr)uSDX case.

Field Radio Kit Gallery: KO6BYB’s Compact Watertight Elecraft KX2 Kit

Many thanks to Cameron (KO6BYB), for sharing the following article about his portable field radio kit, which will be featured on our Field Kit Gallery page. If you would like to share your field kit with the QRPer community, read this post.


Elecraft KX2 Field Kit

by Cameron (KO6BYB)

I wanted to share a tiny KX2 kit I made to fit the Seahorse SE56 (QRPer affiliate link) case. Just upgraded to my General and finally got the HF transceiver of my dreams. Haven’t made it out to the field since I got it last weekend, but I had some spare time (that I should have been sleeping) and whipped this up. Fits basically a whole station in the case:

Components:

  1. Seahorse SE56 watertight case
  2. Elecraft KX2
  3. KXPD2 paddles
  4. Microphone
  5. KXBT2 Battery
  6. AX2 antenna + 40m extender
  7. Ground wire
  8. Pen

If you’re only going to do CW, maybe there’s something clever to put in the place of the mic, but I am still working on my Morse. Slowly but surely.

Inserts can be downloaded on Thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7010681

W8TMI’s Elecraft KH1 Field Kit

Many thanks to Tim (W8TMI), who shares the following article about his portable field radio kit, which will be featured on our Field Kit Gallery page.  If you would like to share your field kit with the QRPer community, read this post.


W8TMI’s Elecraft KH1 Field Kit

by Time (W8TMI)

My Elecraft KH1 field kit is split into two parts: the bag provided with the Edgewood package and a separate bag for added functionality. The Elecraft bag is set up to venture out by itself without anything else required for an activation. The additional bag provides a longer random wire antenna and the ability to get it up into a tree, which increases its gain over the stock whip antenna.

[Note: Most Amazon links are affiliate links that support QRPer.com at no cost to you.]

Additional Photos

2mm bullet adapters for counterpoise wires

Primary KH1 bag

Storage setup

Antenna bag

Eric’s Go-To Low-Cost, Self-Supporting Antenna System for POTA

Recently, @JasonMartinRF left a comment on my YouTube channel mentioning his excitement about getting on the air with CW but also his concern about the high cost of antennas—especially self-supporting options that don’t require trees. His comment resonated with me because many operators face the same challenge when setting up a portable station, particularly for POTA or other field operations.

I immediately thought of my friend Eric McFadden (WD8RIF), who has extensive experience with lightweight, affordable wire antennas that don’t rely on trees for support. Eric has long used a homemade end-fed random wire (EFRW) antenna paired with cost-effective mast solutions, making it a great choice for portable activations. I asked him if he’d be willing to share the details of his setup, and he generously wrote up the following guide.


A Budget-Friendly Self-Supporting Antenna System for POTA

by Eric (WD8RIF)

Because I’ve long used low-cost homemade wire antennas for POTA, and since I usually don’t rely on trees to support these antennas, Thomas asked me to describe an antenna and support systems I often use for my POTA activations.

My “Go-To” antenna for POTA is a 28½’ end-fed random wire (EFRW) antenna with three 17’ counterpoise wires. This antenna covers 40m through 6m (and sometimes 80m) and is constructed from inexpensive speaker wire which can be purchased at big box stores in 50’ and 100’ spools. This two-conductor cable can easily be split into two conductors and the thick insulation helps prevent the finished antenna from tangling.

The idea behind the EFRW antenna is that the length of the antenna is not close to a ½-wavelength on any frequency for which it will be used. The EFRW is not resonant on any band of interest and, thus,  it requires the use of an antenna tuner (ATU).

The benefit of the EFRW is that it can be stealthy and lightweight, it can be relatively short when compared to simple resonant antennas, and it can support operation on multiple bands. It is true that this antenna requires the use of an ATU, but even an inexpensive manual tuner can be used for this purpose.

To construct my version of the EFRW, split the speaker wire into two separate conductors. Cut one conductor to a length between 28½’ and 29’ to create the radiator. Cut three more conductors approximately 17’ long. Strip a ½” or so of insulation off of one end of each of the four wires. If you wish, install banana-plugs on the stripped end; I put a green, red, or orange banana plug on the radiator and “stackable” black banana plugs on the three 17’ counterpoise wires so I can easily attach all three of them to a single “ground” post. Install an insulator of some sort on the far end of the radiator wire, or create a small loop on the far end of the wire using a knot or a nylon wire-tie for hanging the antenna. (I use military buttons as  insulators on my field antennas, and I often use large paper clips to hang the wire to the top of my mast.)

The speaker-wire end-fed random wire antenna
The speaker-wire end-fed random (EFRW) wire antenna. The three 17′ counterpoise wires are on the left; the 28½’ radiator is on the right.

 

You can connect the radiator and counterpoise wires directly to your ATU-equipped transceiver or external ATU using a simple binding-post adapter or, preferably, a 4:1 unun. No coaxial feedline is needed or, in fact, recommended.

LDG 4 to 1 unun and simple binding-post adapter
An LDG 4:1 unun (left) and a simple binding-post adapter (right).

I regularly use a simple binding-post adapter when I’m in the field with my Elecraft KH1 or KX2 field kits. I use a homebrew 4:1 unun when I’m in the field with with my Elecraft KX3 field kit. I use a commercial LDG 4:1 unun (link) when I’m in the field with my Yaesu FT-817ND field kit. (I should note that my KH1, KX2, and KX3 are each equipped with internal ATUs. The FT-817ND doesn’t have an internal ATU but I use a no-longer-available LDG Z-11 ATU with it when I deploy a non-resonant antenna.)

In the field, I suspend the 28½’ radiator as a vertical, as a sloper, or as an inverted-vee, and I lay the three 17’ counterpoise wires directly on the ground, arranged as symmetrically as possible while trying to avoid trip-hazards. (If space is limited, I might lay down only two counterpoise wires or, maybe, even just a single counterpoise wire.)

I usually support the EFRW with a 31’ Jackite telescoping fiberglass mast  (affiliate link) or an inexpensive Goture Red Fox Super Hard 720 carbon-fiber fishing pole (available from multiple sellers on Amazon) from which I’ve removed the top three sections to create a sturdy 18’ pole that collapses to less that 30″. (If you order a Goture 720, be sure to order the “7.2m” version because the top three sections are far too whippy to support a wire.)

I’ve supported the 31’ Jackite mast using a drive-on base (more on this below), bungied to a fence-post or sign-post found on-site, and bungied to my folding camp-chair.

I’ve supported the Goture Red Fox 720 on a custom stake (more on this below) and bungied to my bicycle.

Goture Red Fox 720 bungied to a bicycle and supporting a wire antenna
The Goture Red Fox 720 mast bungied to my bicycle and supporting a wire antenna as a sloper; the KH1 station is on the picnic table.

 

a loop bungie
The sort of bungie I use to strap a mast to a post, my bicycle, or a folding chair.

I often support my 31’ Jackite mast using a homemade drive-on base. This base is constructed from a scrap of 2”x10” pine about 23” long,  a 4″ black plastic toilet flange, a 2’ length of white PVC chosen to provide a friction-fit in the toilet flange, and a PVC reducer at the top. The photos below should provide enough information for you to build your own. I don’t glue any of the plastic items together; I rely on friction to hold the pieces together and I slip the 2’ pipe out of the toilet flange for easier transport in my car. (Disclaimer: I drive a small Honda Fit; I don’t know how well a 2”x10” pine board would survive repeated abuse by a large SUV or pick-up truck.)

Components of the drive-on mast support
The components of the drive-on mast support: a piece of wood, a toilet flange, and some PVC.
drive-on mast base assembled
The drive-on mast base, assembled.
drive-on mast base in use
The drive-on mast base in use at Burr Oak State Park. The 31′ Jackite mast is supporting the 28½’ EFRW as a vertical and three 17′ counterpoise wires extend out from the bottom of the front passenger door. The station is inside the car.

 

 

 

The spike for the Goture Red Fox 720 is simply a 7” length of white PCV just big enough to slip the large end of the mast into, with a matching PVC cap on one end drilled to accept a 3/8” diameter, 8” long spike. Originally, I tried using epoxy to secure the spike in the cap, but this failed, and now I’m using an appropriately-sized push-nut to hold the spike in place. (The PVC and the 8” spike were found at the local big-box store; the push-nut was found at a local well-equipped hardware store.)

Goture Red Fox 720 and custom spike
The Goture Red Fox 720 and the custom spike.
close-up view of the push-on nut securing the metal spike
A close-up view of the push-on nut securing the metal spike to the PVC cap.

 

I hope this article gives you some ideas for your own field operations!

73,
Eric McFadden, WD8RIF
https://wd8rif.com/radio.htm


A huge thanks to Eric (WD8RIF) for taking the time to document his antenna setup in such detail! His approach demonstrates that you don’t have to spend a fortune to get on the air with an effective self-supporting antenna system.

Personally, I believe that using an arborist throw line, a tree, and a simple wire antenna is often the most affordable and effective way to get on the air. However, depending on where you live or where you activate, trees may not always be an option. That’s why having a self-supporting antenna system in your toolkit is always a good idea—it gives you the flexibility to operate anywhere.

If you’ve built an affordable self-supporting antenna system that works well for your field operations, I’d love to hear about it! Feel free to share your experiences, designs, or recommendations in the comments or in a guest post. The more we exchange ideas, the more we can help fellow operators—especially those just getting started—find practical, budget-friendly solutions for getting on the air.

Field Radio Kit Gallery: N5YCO’s Lightweight CFT1 SOTA Kit

Many thanks to Corey (N5YCO), for sharing the following article about his portable field radio kit, which will be featured on our Field Kit Gallery page. If you would like to share your field kit with the QRPer community, read this post.


CFT1 Field Kit

by Corey McDonald (N5YCO)

I thought I would supply the field kit that I use for my CFT1. I prefer SOTA activations when I can, so my kit is on the lightweight minimal side.

All of the 3d printed parts are carbon fiber PETG for strength.

Not pictured: Small log notebook, SOTABeams Carbon6, guy ring and lines.

My kit consists of the following:

Note: All Amazon links are affiliate/partner links that support QRPer.com at no cost to you.

72,

– Corey N5YCO

Snow, Sand, and Solar Storms: Tim’s New Year’s Eve Radio Adventure

New Year’s Eve Sand Dune SOTA & POTA

by Tim (W8TMI)

My wife and I head to Northern Michigan over the New Year’s holiday almost every year. It’s a nice way to wrap up the year and the busy holiday season. Most of our friends and family obligations are met, and we can spend time unwinding and exploring the wonderful things that Michigan has to offer.

This year was no exception. We found a nice place to stay in Frankfort, Michigan. Several breweries, eateries, coffee houses, hiking trails, miles of shoreline, and a local bookstore made this an ideal location for a few days with nothing pressing to accomplish.

Being a ham, I always take a peek around to see what POTA and SOTA entities may be nearby wherever we end up staying. I was in luck, there was a SOTA within a POTA just north of where we were staying. Along the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore (US-0767) is Empire Bluffs sand dunes (W8M/LP-019). This was too much to resist.

Sleeping Bear Dune National Lakeshore

As the plans firmed up around our timeline and bookings, my mind began to imagine the activation. I am well versed in POTA activations and have many tricks to overcome beaches, snow, lack of picnic tables, lack of trees, and many other things that can come my way. My mind began to question if I had the right gear to make this happen and I began to plan for a setup that could be deployed and operated in harsh conditions with little assistance from the environment around me.

I have learned from my previous experiences on the sand dunes of the Great Lakes that  conditions can be challenging. I knew I would more than likely face snow on the ground, new snow in the air, wind, cold temps, sand, narrow dune peaks, local vegetation, and the challenge to hike all of my gear to the spot. Now it was time to take what I had and turn it into the SOTA/POTA setup that could get the job done.

The antenna would be the GabilGRA-7350  [QRPer.com affiliate link] with three 13’ radials deployed out as far as I could get them. Gabil recommends setting the antenna to the general resonance area marked on the coil and using a wide range tuner to finish the job. I have found this to be true, especially analyzing the antenna on the soil in my backyard where I can get a 1:1 SWR match versus the sandy beaches of Lake Michigan.

Gabil GRA-7350, spare whip, and three 13′ counterpoises attached via 2mm banana plugs

I chose the CFT1 as my radio. It covers the bands that I would more than likely operate and with the Tufteln face cover it weighs around 8 oz.

20 meters being the primary band because with the wind and cold, I knew speed would be paramount. For the tuner and battery, I chose the mAT-10 ATU and the Talentcell 3000 mA Li-Ion [QRPer.com affiliate link]. Finally, the N0SA M7 iambic paddle.

CFT1, mAT-10 tuner, Talentcell battery, N0SA M7, Rite in the Rain book and pencil

To bring this kit together in a way that I could operate standing up, I needed some kind of bag or pouch to wear that would allow access to the tune button on the tuner, the volume and VFO on the radio, ability to log, and key without having to hold on to the paddle. As a fly fisherman I thought about a sling pack or a chest pack, but neither would work with any of my backpacks I planned to haul the antenna.

My friend Erik (WS3D) recommended a waist pack. At first glance I wasn’t sure this could meet my needs. Off to the local shopping center I went to see if I could find some options that could accommodate my SOTA kit. After going into five different stores that had some forms of waist packs, my local athletics sporting goods store had one that I thought might work with some minor modifications.

It was small, which meant it could easily fit into the backpack I planned to use. Once I got home, I was able to stuff each component into one of the several pockets provided on the pack. The question remained: how do I key without holding the paddle?

Following the tip provided by N0SA who designed and made the M7, Velcro attached to the bottom of the key would allow adhesion to the pack. I was able to purchase some of the “loop” material from JoAnn and got to work with my sewing machine. A small 2”x3” portion on the right side of the pack would allow for right hand keying while I kept the logger in my left hand. Keeping my right hand free to operate the message functions, volume, and VFO of the radio if needed.

Outdoor Gear fanny pack with sewn on hook and loop patch

I had a kit and a plan, now to get to it. Continue reading Snow, Sand, and Solar Storms: Tim’s New Year’s Eve Radio Adventure

Field Radio Kit Gallery: Pedro’s (tr)uSDX Field Kit

Many thanks to Pedro (PP2PB), who shares the following article about his portable field radio kit, which will be featured on our Field Kit Gallery page.


Pedro’s (tr)uSDX Compact and Affordable Field Kit

by Pedro (PP2PB)

Here’s my new kit.

This kit weighs just under 1,2kg and has phone and CW operations in mind. I might add some cables for digital modes, but I haven’t tested this rig with digital modes, just yet.

The (tr)uSDX was bought assembled with the LO bands RF board, and I assembled the HI RF board myself. I got Adam’s alternative case printed out for easy band switching and did a minor mod to the RF boards soldering a Zener diode reverse polarized as a high SWR protection.

I also added a USB port to the battery pack because the (tr)uSDX can operate with around 0,5W directly from USB and that’s a great way to test for SWR and fine tune the antenna without stressing the finals.

The manual antenna coupler is also my creation and even though it doesn’t appear on the exploded view it does fit in there no problem (it was added after I took the pictures).

Gear List:

72 DE PP2PB

Field Radio Kit Gallery: KM4CFT’s CFT1 Field Kit

Many thanks to Jonathan (KM4CFT), for sharing the following article about his portable field radio kit, which will be featured on our Field Kit Gallery page. If you would like to share your field kit with the QRPer community, read this post


CFT1 Field Kit

by Jonathan (KM4CFT)

I thought I would supply my own field kit I recently put together for my CFT1.

This will also be the official announcement of my newest product, which is a CW Key leg strap. The leg strap is something I originally got my dad to fabricate for me out of some scrap metal a while back, and now that I have the version 2 iambic paddles, I thought it would be nice to mass-produce them. They are compatible with any magnetically mounted paddle.

This is my CFT1 Go Bag. It contains everything I need to activate my CFT1 except for a mast or throwline.

The kit consists of the following:

Note: All Amazon links are affiliate/partner links that support QRPer.com at no cost to you.

72,
-Jonathan KM4CFT

Flying High and Keying Low: A Pilot’s QRP Adventures Across the USA

Many thanks to Micah (N4MJL) who shares the following guest post:


Elecraft KH1 Anytime and Anywhere Adventures

by Micah (N4MJL)

Anywhere and anytime—that’s how I like to describe my Elecraft KH1. This radio goes everywhere I go. As an airline pilot, I bounce from coast to coast and everywhere in between almost daily. Since I’m constantly on the move, my radio gear has to be small and compact.

I’m a third-generation ham radio CW operator. Anyone who’s heard me on the air knows I’m still quite new to CW. I only started running CW activations with POTA/SOTA in the spring of 2024. Here’s the gear that’s been working well for me, along with a few photos from the locations I’ve had the pleasure of activating.

I’ve found that the Pelican M50 micro case is the perfect “shack in a box” for my KH1. This setup goes everywhere with me. Here’s what fits perfectly in the M50:

  • Packtenna 9:1 random wire
  • 20 ft BNC coax
  • Panasonic ErgoFit earbuds
  • SP4 paddles from CW Morse
  • KH1 (fully loaded with internal battery and tuner)
  • 30 ft throw line
  • Write-in-the-Rain notebook
  • High Visibility Orange Cap-O-Matic Fisher Space Pen (with lanyard)
  • Desiccant silica gel pack

In pedestrian mobile configuration, the KH1 is a solid system. I’ve done several activations this way. That said, after 45 minutes of holding the KH1 in this setup, I’m ready to wrap up! Having a portable shack that lets me deploy a random wire that tunes 40-15m and a more ergonomically designed key drastically improves my capabilities.

In many urban environments where I activate POTA, pedestrian mobile is essential. Unfortunately, the security in urban parks can be unpredictable, and the KH1 allows me to operate on the go and quickly move if needed.

Some of you may be wondering what I did to the inside of my M50 case. Well, in my defense, it’s my wife’s fault. She left me unsupervised with a glue gun and a bit of alcohol. When my KH1 arrived this spring, solar conditions were poor, so I had a few days to think and decided to turn the case into a makeshift Faraday box. I used Polyken aluminum tape, cardboard, and a glue gun to line it. Now, I know what you’re thinking: there’s no electrical bonding between the lid and lower box due to the rubber seal, so will this really work as a Faraday cage? Maybe, maybe not—but it sure looks cool! What do you think?

In addition to the M50 case, I carry a support pouch (Magpul DAKA, size small). This heavy-duty, water-resistant pouch contains:

  • 31 ft counterpoise wire
  • AXE1 40m antenna extender
  • Bioenno battery 12V 3Ah (backup battery—“1 is none, and 2 is 1” if you know, you know!)
  • KH1 power cable
  • KH1 right-angle antenna mount

These items aren’t essential but are nice to have for longer activations.

When I’m done flying and ready to play radio, I pack all this gear into my Flash 22 day pack. This compact, minimalist pack takes up almost no room in my flight bag and even has a built-in whistle on the chest strap, which is perfect for California!

When conditions allow, I enjoy using the full five watts of power. My go-to antenna is the SOTAbeams Band Hopper III, which is a versatile half-wave linked dipole:

  • Rated 125 watts
  • Center-fed with 33 ft RG174 coax
  • Guying system included
  • Resonant on 20m, 30m, and 40m (no tuner needed, though the KH1 tuner will also tune up 17m and 15m)
  • Built-in balun
  • Weighs only 14 oz

The wire/guying winders are excellent, and I’ve used this system in all kinds of environments, from sandy beaches to mountain tops above the treeline. I replaced the aluminum tent pegs with plastic ones to keep TSA happier.

The SOTAbeams Tactical Mini Mast fits diagonally in my 22″ roller board. I wrap heavy rubber-coated wire around it to secure it to posts or shrubs when needed.

Along with this radio gear, I also manage to pack a change of clothes—usually enough for a five-day trip. I typically fly three trips a month, each lasting four to five days. My roller board carries me and my radio gear from plane to plane all week long.

On a short backpacking trip along the Appalachian Trail (June 3, 2024), I activated SOTA summit W4V/BR-007 Three Ridges and the Three Ridges Wilderness area (POTA US-9959). The mountain in the distance is The Priest (W4V/BR-002), which I activated earlier this year with my LNR Precision MTR4B.

The summit of Three Ridges is a densely wooded area, so I stopped below the summit to enjoy the view, grab a quick snack, and play some radio. I snagged two POTA-only QSOs with W8WZ in Louisiana and KU8T in Indiana using the KH1’s whip antenna. Once I reached the summit, I used the Packtenna 9:1 random wire for my activation. Continue reading Flying High and Keying Low: A Pilot’s QRP Adventures Across the USA

The Design Philosophy of the CFT1: From concept to product

Many thanks to Jonathan KM4CFT who shares this article with us.  If you have an article in your head and want to have it posted here, let’s keep this community going while our friend Thomas continues to help his neighbours. Draft up your story in an email with reference points to the pictures you want embedded and their captions, attach photos to the note and send it my way to vincedeon at gmail dot com and note QRPer in the subject line to get my attention.

By: Jonathan Kayne, KM4CFT

About 10 months ago, I took the plunge to design my own Morse Code transceiver. It was a crazy idea, and this was certainly a massive undertaking, but somehow, I managed to pull off this monumental task. The result of the project was the CFT1, a 5 Band CW Field Transceiver specifically tailored for POTA and SOTA operations. Doing this project was a great learning experience and despite the monumental effort and work I put into it, I really enjoyed getting to design a new product. There is something special when you see something you love and put effort into appear in the hands of others and seeing them enjoy using said product.

The purpose of this article is to outline some of the thoughts I put into when I designed the CFT1. It is not meant to go into the meat and potatoes of RF design work as there are plenty of resources out there that go over that stuff. I have yet to see much discussed on design philosophy of a transceiver so I thought it prudent to document these things. That is; what I took into consideration when putting together the radio. And as I learned in this project, when pulled off correctly, can result in a great product.

Continue reading The Design Philosophy of the CFT1: From concept to product