From the Badlands to Mesa Verde: QRP Across America’s National Parks

Activating on the Road:  National Parks

by Brian (K3ES)

This article continues my series from our 2024 road trip across the United States (Six Weeks and 7300 Miles:  Activating on the Road).  I hope to wrap up the series with one last article soon.  In this report, I will cover the six National Parks (NPs) that we visited during our trip.  I activated five of them for the Parks on the Air (POTA) program using CW mode at 5 watts.  A previous report on Stealth Activating with the KX1 Antenna System provided activation details for three of the parks (Badlands NP, Yellowstone NP, and Grand Canyon NP), so I will not reproduce activation details here, but I will include more of Becky’s pictures.

Each of these NPs is spectacular in its own right, and also distinctly different from each of the others.  We were able to see some of the sights, but by no means had enough time to do them justice.  In fact, as we completed our drive through Yellowstone NP, Becky and I committed ourselves to going back again and spending much more time to see its wonders.

As I reflect on our visits to NPs on our trip, it occurs to me how beneficial it was to buy an Annual America the Beautiful National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass before we left on our trip.

The pass costs $80 for a year, and generally covers the admission of one vehicle and its occupants.  We were able to save on admission costs several times over, making this one of the best NP values going.  Having now completed 62 trips around the sun, when we next visit NPs, I am eligible for an even better value, the $80 Senior Lifetime America the Beautiful Pass.

Badlands NP

The first NP we visited on our trip was Badlands NP in South Dakota.  We spent a couple of nights and days based nearby in the town of Wall, so we were able to take two drives through the park.  There is a stark transition from rolling plateau north of the park to the spectacular peaks and canyons of the badlands.  Rapid erosion has been shaping the terrain for about 500,000 years with the Cheyenne and White Rivers cutting their way through the terrain.  The resulting landscape is both beautiful and severe.

While visiting the park, we were privileged to see a variety of wildlife.  We saw a number of bison, ranging from small herds grazing in fields along the road, to an individualist who took a liking to the taste of grass beside one of the overlook parking areas.  There were also bighorn sheep and pronghorn antelope wandering other parts of the park.  There was abundant bird life, from a disoriented prairie chicken that accepted water from concerned visitors, to birds of prey soaring high above.  Becky particularly enjoyed the frenetic activity of the residents of Roberts Prairie Dog Town.

This bison had no problem napping in the middle of the Prairie Dog Town
This prairie chicken appreciated shade and water in the parking lot

During our visit, we stopped at an overlook parking area for Becky to take pictures of the spectacular scenery, including the aforementioned bison.  While she was doing this, I took the opportunity to do a stealth activation of the park, which is documented in an earlier Field Report here on QRPer.com, linked as K3ES:  Stealth activating with the AX1 Antenna System.

I managed to catch the photographer in action during a lull in my activation
Of course, Becky caught me in action, too

Yellowstone NP

We knew when planning our trip, that we would not have time for a proper visit to Yellowstone NP.  In fact, we intended to hold off on visiting until we had time for a dedicated trip.  But throughout our drive, Becky kept searching the available maps for opportunities and possibilities.  As we traveled through Montana, she noticed that we could fit in an abbreviated trip through Yellowstone and Grand Teton NPs if we adjusted our route.  Consequently, we found ourselves spending the next night in Gardiner, MT, just outside the north entrance to the park.

We drove from north to south through Yellowstone NP in about 5 hours, stopping only to see Mammoth Hot Springs near the north entrance, and Old Faithful on our way to the south entrance.  We also stopped momentarily for a few snap shots, but we missed so much that we committed ourselves to returning someday for a proper visit.

Mammoth Hot Springs
During our drive, we saw this valley full of geothermal activity

Stand back!
and use a long lens…
Beauty even emerged at the end of Old Faithful’s eruption
Just enjoy this picture from our drive through Yellowstone…
Driving through the park, we crossed the Continental Divide several times

Our encounters with wildlife started as we drove in through the north entrance.  A small herd of elk were grazing beside the road.  Adding to the scene, a group of prairie dogs were also on hand to greet visitors. Later in the drive we saw bison, and Becky had a closer encounter while walking to the viewing area for Old Faithful.  One of these large animals had found a place to lie down and watch visitors as they followed the trail.

These elk were part of a small herd supervising vehicles entering the Park
This bison was hiding in plain sight to keep his eye on visitors to Old Faithful

My POTA activation at Yellowstone NP is recorded in an earlier Field Report here on QRPer.com, linked as K3ES’ Unplanned activation of Yellowstone National Park.

Grand Teton NP

Because our visits to Yellowstone and Grand Teton NPs were unplanned and opportunistic, we saw Grand Teton as we drove the road through the park.  I did not even attempt a POTA activation of US-0031.  Fortunately, the iconic mountains that form the core of the park were visible, and readily photographed, from the highway and a couple of overlooks.  The views are spectacular, even when seen only in passing.  One day, we will return again for a proper visit, and memories of the views lead me to recommend seeing it if your travels take you to the area.  Here are some picturesque views from our drive through the park.

Leave it to Becky to find horses…

Grand Canyon NP

Seeing the Grand Canyon was a particular goal for me.  I had traveled cross-country during my parents move from Pennsylvania to California in 1986, but the goal of that trip was to get to their new home before the movers arrived to deliver their possessions.  So, we passed within 60 miles of the Grand Canyon, but I never got to see it.  This trip made up for that near-miss.  Becky, Molly, and I drove to the park visitor center, and found a space in one of the large parking lots.

Since there were limitations on where Molly could go in the park, I took the first shift walking to the overlook, while Becky remained in the truck with Molly.  The views were amazing, and looking down, the depth of the canyon genuinely incomprehensible.  I took some pictures to remember my visit, then went back to the truck to give Becky her opportunity  to explore.  Molly and I stayed in the truck for an activation of US-0030, which is documented in an earlier Field Report here on QRPer.com, linked as K3ES:  Stealth activating with the AX1 Antenna System.  Following are some of our pictures, which fail to truly capture the wonder of the Grand Canyon.

It is a long, long way down…
…and a long way across.

Molly was unimpressed, but on a VERY tight leash as Becky took her picture beside the canyon.
Our intrepid photographer was smiling, but apprehensive.  The long drop and the rising wind were taking their toll.
But Becky got the picture!
Molly kept close watch, while I activated from the parking lot.

Petrified Forest NP

Petrified Forest NP (US-0057) is located along Interstate 40, about 50 miles east of Winslow, AZ.  It includes a number of areas with prominent pieces of petrified wood, as well as great views of the Painted Desert, a colorful area of badlands.  We entered the park through its southern gate, and spent some time at the Rainbow Forest.  Molly was happy to find that the park is pet-friendly, so she could walk around on her leash.  She enjoyed walking around and taking in the new sights and smells (mostly, but more on that later).

Molly went for a walk with me along a trail flanked by petrified wood, while Becky visited the Rainbow Forest Museum.  Then she joined Becky for a continued stroll, while I set up to activate.  The day was warm and cloudless.  The sun was strong, and I was happy to find a vacant picnic shelter to shade my activation.  I set up at a picnic table, lashed my telescopic fishing pole to the shelter to support my 35 ft EFRW antenna, and got on the air.  In 40 minutes, I logged 18 contacts, despite some off-air antics and drama.  Here are some pictures of petrified wood.

Molly particularly enjoyed large pieces of petrified wood for their shade.
I operated from a picnic table under a shelter, for sun protection.  The telescopic fishing pole supports the end of my antenna at the back corner of the shelter, and the feedpoint is supported from the rafter at the near corner.
QRP CW operation from US-0057
Contacts from US-0057 are plotted on the map.
Driving through the park, we crossed over a BNSF rail line.
The park also includes picturesque views of the Painted Desert.

From the antics standpoint, we watched one of the park’s ravens landing in the back of a parked pickup truck.  We could not tell exactly what was attracting the large black bird, but when the owners returned, we alerted them to their visitor.  It seems it had been attracted by a bag of laundry laying in the back of the truck.  Strange, but we were glad that our truck was covered by a cap!

From the drama standpoint, an exclamation from Becky distracted me from a QSO in progress.  I don’t know about other operators, but I have to focus while working CW contacts.  I looked over and found Becky pointing towards Molly’s nose with evident concern.  I looked down and saw what I thought was a spider!

Thinking quickly, I swiped my hand to brush it off, only to discover my error.  In sniffing around, Molly had brushed against a piece of Cholla cactus, and came away with a long-spined piece of the plant sticking to her muzzle.  After a surprised yelp, Molly accepted my apology, and let me pull off the offending vegetation.  I sheepishly returned to my QSO, and completed the activation with sharp sensations in my index finger.  After calling QRT, I performed some Swiss Army knife surgery (the onboard tweezers were invaluable), and removed two small, but wicked spines that had broken off in my finger tip.  Fortunately, Molly forgave my error, and had no lasting ill effects from her experience.  I suspect she will be much more cautious about sniffing out that particular smell if she encounters it again.

Mesa Verde NP

From Petrified Forest NP, we drove to the town of Cortez, located in the southwestern corner of Colorado.  After a night in a hotel, we got an early start for our visit to nearby Mesa Verde NP.  Cortez sits at an elevation of 6100 ft.

These mountains are located to the north of the Park, and well beyond its boundary.  The snow on these peaks shows that they are much higher in altitude than Mesa Verde.

We chose to stop at Park Point, the highest peak in the park, to take in its panoramic view.  There is a fire lookout station located at the top of Park Point, at an elevation of 8572 ft above sea level.  The lookout was just a short walk from the parking area, about 0.1 miles with 30 ft of elevation gain.

I took the first shift up the hill, while Becky and Molly toured the parking area, then Becky took her turn.  Molly and I set up to do an activation from a convenient picnic table in the parking area.  This would be a joint Parks on the Air (POTA) and Summits on the Air (SOTA) activation, since this particular piece of US-0051 was well inside the activation zone for W0C/SJ-019 (Park Point).  I set up my 35 ft EFRW antenna as an inverted V supported by my telescopic fishing pole lashed to the table, and got on the air.  In 45 minutes, I logged 23 contacts, sufficient to activate both Mesa Verde NP and my second-ever SOTA summit.

Park Point Fire Lookout
A view from Park Point
Molly and I are operating from Park Point, POTA entity US-0051 and SOTA peak W0C/SJ-019.  The antenna is supported by the telescopic fishing pole lashed to the picnic table.
Another view of my operation from Park Point
Contacts from US-0051 and W0C/SJ-019 are plotted on the map.

After quickly packing my gear, we got back in the truck and continued our drive through the park.  Despite the spectacular views, the highlight of our time in the park came when we stopped to see some of the ancient adobe cliff dwellings.  A longer visit could have involved ranger-led walking tours of these structures, but we had to content ourselves with pictures taken from overlooks.  Still, the well-preserved architecture, and the thought of making your home in a cliff face a mile and a quarter above sea level were just amazing.

Wild fire damage atop Mesa Verde
This cactus was growing on Mesa Verde.  Molly did not investigate.

Conclusion

A month and a half on the road is nowhere near enough to see a tiny fraction of the sights and parks, even just the National Parks, across our great land.  With that said, this report provides a sample of a sample of National Parks.  Even so, Becky, Molly, and I thoroughly enjoyed our brief visits, and we hope to provide some inspiration to others.

We have certainly committed to spend some more time in Yellowstone NP, and there are definitely other NPs that we want to see.  It has been quite the challenge to activate parks in all of our western states, and I look forward to more opportunities in the future.  With that, I will commit to one more field report from our time on the road.  I think it is only fitting to share a report from the last park activated during our trip.  But, that will have to wait a bit longer, as the report will not write itself, and I have other travels that will keep me from my keyboard a bit longer.  Until then…

Best 73 de Brian, Becky, and Molly

Gear

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18 thoughts on “From the Badlands to Mesa Verde: QRP Across America’s National Parks”

    1. Thanks, Chris! Yes, we stopped at Wall Drug. Among other things, I got a great breakfast with 5 cent coffee!

    1. Thanks, Eugene! I am happy to share, and I was glad to have Becky along as official photographer! 😉

  1. 1) A friend told me that US military veterans can get a life-time Nat’l Park pass free. I am a veteran but have not tested this, so do your research before you stroll in and start demanding.

    2) I’m 72 and as a kid (maybe 10?) the family did a camping trip and drove through the Petrified Forest. We were warned on the way in not to remove anything, and then as we left, the ranger quizzed my dad to see if any of the three kids got anything. My dad asked us, received silence for an answer, and told the ranger we had not. We got down the road about 2 hrs and we kids, in the back seat, were talking/whispering. One sister to the other: “Did you get some?” Second sister pulls a “rock” out of her jacket pocket and shows it to us. My parents never knew we had that, and somehow over the years, I gained possession of it. About once every 5 yrs, my cigar box full of treasures shows up and there’s that “rock” again. I’ve thought about sending it back, but so far, it hasn’t gotten done. I do not recommend picking things up there. You might get deported 😉

    1. Hi Ken,

      Thank you for your service! Yes, as a veteran, you are eligible for a free America the Beautiful pass. I think you can get your pass on line. I picked mine up locally, at the ranger station for Allegheny National Forest.

      Interestingly, Becky was able to buy a small package of petrified wood chunks from the gift shop. They source it from outside the park, and keep it well sealed to prevent exchanges.

  2. That lifetime pass is a great deal and I got it when it only cost $10 for the lifetime pass. Unfortunately Pres Obama raised the cost back then.

  3. Hi Don! You are so right about the lifetime pass! $10 would be a steal at today’s prices, but $80 was a good bargain for the annual pass, and a great deal for a lifetime.

  4. Very cool! Mimics a trip my family did a few years ago, just pre-radio. How do you string your antenna to the goture pole?

    1. Thanks Mike! I use a girth hitch to secure the middle of a 4″ piece of cord around the top section, and slide it down against the second pole section (the top section is too flexible to carry much weight). Then I tie a square knot around the radiator wire (for an inverted V) or to the end of the radiator wire (for a sloper).

  5. I’ll say it again – a DREAM TRIP and a BUCKET LIST adventure. Living the life, Brian! Encountering some adorable prairie dogs always adds to the experience (I would have been so tempted to take more than photos, hi hi…..). I’m also glad that Molly’s muzzle was none the worse for her encounter. This whole adventure series proves that any ham who operates ONLY with a roof overhead – by choice – is missing a part of radio life that cannot be replicated. Not ever.

  6. Thanks Caryn! This was an amazing adventure, and I consider myself blessed to have been able to take the trip. Molly bounced back from her cholla experience with typical Boston Terrier exuberance. Just ask her about outdoor operations, and see what happens: “Molly, do you wanna POTA?”

  7. Thank you for this article and the wonderful pictures! My wife and I have been to all these except Badlands, and my wife has also been to Badlands. It was great to see them again.
    I have the lifetime America the Beautiful pass, which is available for military, veterans, and Gold Star families. As I recall, you can get it for free at parks, or online for $10 in which case it comes personalized with your name on it. Online you just need a few details from your DD-214 and they are able to quickly verify your service.

    1. Hi William! Thank you for your service. It is hard to beat the America the Beautiful Pass at any price. The National Parks are spectacular. One day, I hope to visit more!

  8. Thanks for sharing and for all of the wonderful photos. Visiting as many national parks as I can is on my bucket list. I’ve got three planned for the trip to and from Dayton this year.

    Keep the good stories coming!

    73, Conrad

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